That's right, Dr. Flash: Vivitar 550FDs at twenty paces!
And my point was simply that he could select the image in PS, or any
part of the image, then go to Filters > Noise > Dust and Scratches,
and see whether it helps.
It's possible that dedicated software was more subtle or offered more
ways to tune the effect, but I don't recall that being the case with
the Polaroid product, which was touted as being really competitive
with ICE. People who tried both didn't seem to think so.
In the end, I have never found any substitute for sheer toil in
working with a scratched negative. Edwal No Scratch is probably as
close to a silver bullet as I have found. If the scratch comes up
visibly in the scan, it's tough. Among a number of such projects, I
spent many many hours on a scanned Daguerrotype of my great-great
grandparents. It scanned beautifully on a flatbed, but the thing was
in pretty bad shape, particularly around the edges. You just have to
concentrate on the most important part, like the faces, and see how
far you can stand to go towards perfecting the image en toto. :(
Joel W.
On 1/13/07, Chuck Norcutt <chucknorcutt@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> I didn't realize I was throwing bricks. I also have a copy of the ill
> performing Polaroid software (and others) and would rate their
> performance as pretty poor. However, I've only ever tried this type of
> software on color negative scans. My point was that an old B&W negative
> might be of sufficiently low contrast that the software might have a
> better chance of working since its fundamental mode of operation is to
> detect high contrast areas as indicative of scratches and dust.
>
> Dunno. Never tried it but think there's at least a small chance that it
> might perform better then we expect.
>
> Chuck Norcutt
>
> Moose wrote:
> > Joel Wilcox wrote:
> >> Who's denigrating?
> > I believe the brick was aimed at me, not you.
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