> RawShooter Essentials or RawShooter Pro?
>
> Essentials has a bit of a price advantage!
I'm just using Essentials.
Key to satisfaction, is to almost always increase the shadow
contrast and pull back the highlight contrast. This counteracts
the incorrect gamma in the converter. Jacking up the saturation
seems to take on the Nuclear Ektachrome look. It is hard to get
the WB right with the A1 files in RSE. I usually get it as close
as I can and do a little final color correction in an editor.
The OlyColy profile sometimes helps remove some of the coolness
in the image, but the green gamma is off. OlyColy profile turns
greens to olive drab.
With the contrast adjustments, a slight tweeking of the WB and a
bump in the saturation gives my A1 files a very close to Provia
look. My only grouse with the A1 and RSE is that everything
seems to be so close to the edge. A setting that works for one
picture probably won't for the very next one. There is no
"tolerance" for error. This is in comparison to the Olympus E-1
RAW files processed in Olympus' RAW converters. Wide swings in
settings barely make a difference and what works in one picture
usually will in the next.
When processing a bulk of pictures from an event, I'll use RSE,
but will just get the settings close and keep things relatively
dull. I'll then PP those images in an editor to get all the
skintones to match. RSE is sometimes aweful with
skintones--everybody looks a little green.
With all of these negatives with RSE, you'd think it's a
complete waste of time. Hardly. The sharpness and resolution
increase (as well as decent noise reduction algorithms) bring
the A1 into a category of usability that the Minolta probably
never intended. The A1 will outresolve my E-1 most of the time.
What is so very odd with the A1/RSE images is the "look" of the
images. Although the resolution and detail of the images are
notably different, the look and feel of the A1 images in
landscape use have a distinct 4x5 viewcamera characteristic to
them. It's hard to describe, but it looks like the DOF and Bokeh
are close in most small to medium sized prints. Larger prints,
the resolution advantage of the 4x5 film takes over, but in 8x10
and 5x7 prints the pictures are nearly identical. The E-1, to
me, has the distinct Mamiya 645 look.
AG
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