Since there was a question posed about fireworks, and I just
happened to be processing some fireworks shots. I placed them
in the "Gallery" on my website.
www.image66media.com
Getting shots like these isn't easy, and just when I think I've
gotten it all figured out, the next fireworks display is a
complete disaster.
There are several factors involved:
#1 Location. If you want to photograph fireworks with bridges or
the cityscape you really must do so from a huge distance. Big
long lenses are used to compress the fireworks with structures.
I've photographed fireworks from as close as 50 feet from the
launching morters (and got the scars to prove it), been downwind
and gotten bombarded with hot casings, and photographed as far
as three miles downriver from a display. Each type of location
will give you dramatic shots, but to give life to the shots, a
foreground or background subject (geographical placement and/or
people) will give the images an added dimension.
#2 Size of the display. There are two distinct sizes of shells
used. The types of displays usually seen at ballgames or
special events are typically the small ones. They don't launch
very high and the roses are smaller diameters. As a general rule
you'll see more artistry with these displays and a good
combination of "fountain" style (roman candle) fireworks as well
as color themes. The typical HOLIDAY displays where the entire
country turns out to eat hotdogs, swat bugs and go Ooh and Aah
is less artistic and more bombastic. Lots of color, brightness
and sound, but rarely do they flow or illustrate a visual dance.
If you want to enjoy these fireworks, get as close as possible.
If you want to photograph these fireworks, a very long distance,
especially over water, is actually more productive.
#3 Exposure. The biggest problem is overexposure. If you
overexpose fireworks you lose the colors. Since the fireworks
themselves are extremely bright, a low ISO and a tight F-stop is
perfectly adequate. The second half of the equation is time. If
you are attempting to get color in the sky or expose a cityscape
you will have to adjust your time and somewhat the F-stop to
accomplish this. ISO 100 has proven to be about the best film
speed setting for me.
#4 Timing. Watch for the mortor launches and keep an eye on the
skybound shells. Based on sound (the big roses really thump
when they are launched) and speed (the big ones rise slower and
usually have a bit of a flaming tail), you can pretty much guess
what's coming up. I like to open the shutter just before they
explode and wait partway through the blast. If you wait too
long they just get really droopy or windblown.
#5 Watch for powerlines. A perfect viewing point is ruined by
the presence of a powerline cutting through the shot.
AG
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