Chuck:
I took your advice and got the negatives printed at one of our better
photo shops. It's clear that the scanning job was not good. On the
print of the photo I posted, the girl's facial features are clear, as is
the detail of her blouse. Another photo (a sunset) now doesn't look
blown out either, and even the other photos look "better" somehow. So,
you were right!
Best wishes,
Martin
Chuck Norcutt wrote:
>Martin Walters wrote:
>
>
>>On my last trip, I thought that I would simply get my photos on CD and
>>address the colour issue post-processing (OM2N, auto mode, Kodak 400,
>>100/2 probably wide open). The entertainers were well lit and the
>>lighting was static (ie, there weren't floods moving or changing colours).
>>
>>To my surprise this time, I found that all such photos (the "best" one
>>can be seen at:
>>http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mwalters@xxxxxxxxxx/album?.dir=/6754&.src=ph
>>) had blown-out highlights. The entertainers were dressed in white
>>blouses/shirts, which obviously didn't help.
>>
>>
>
>I'm sure someone else with more specific experience may have some better
>suggestions but I'll address a few points.
>
>The main point is that we are starting off begging the question of
>whether your negatives are really blown. The scans on CD may be blown
>but that's not the same. You really need to take a close look at the
>negatives to be sure. Then, if the negatives are not blown, you need to
>ask to what ends you're willing to go to get better prints.
>
>
>
>>So, the questions I have are:
>>
>>a) how should I meter such scenes to preserve the highlights? and
>>
>>
>
>The best solution would be to walk up and meter the exact lighting with
>a gray card if you could. Lacking that you have to guesstimate.
>Someone else may have a better suggestion but my "rules of thumb" card
>(Black Cat exposure guide) for a stage lit with spots or colored lights
>indicates 1/500 - 1/1000 second using ISO 400 film at f/2. Probably
>faster than you guessed.
>
>
>
>
>>b) can “levels” in PS (Elements 2, in my case) correct the yellow cast
>>of such photos?
>>
>>
>
>Sure, but I'll bet Elements 2 has some simpler to use and more automated
>tools for fixing color balance that will get it 95% correct. Do a
>search on the help file. Be careful with the white balance. If you fix
>it completely you may ruin the mood produced by the lighting.
>
>
>
>>Some thoughts on a):
>>- use spot metering for highlights (if I had an OM4t);
>>- use manual mode rather than auto, and meter on the highlights;
>>
>>
>
>Yes, I would shoot manual mode. That way you know what the exposure is.
> If it's wrong this time you know how to fix it next time.
>
>
>
>>- use auto but compensate, say -½ or -1 stop.
>>
>>Of course, if all else fails, I should take a flash!
>>
>>
>
>No, I wouldn't try flash, at least with the sample image you supplied.
>The image is bright enough that you don't need flash to illuminate the
>area. The only thing the flash can accomplish is to reduce the dynamic
>range of the scene by filling the shadows which is hard to do without
>exaccerbating the already difficult dynamic range problem. In such a
>large stage area as the sample photo covers it would take a couple of
>powerful studio flashes to produce enought light to make much difference
>to the shadows. Concentrate on making sure the highlights are not blown
>on the negative and then figure out how to make the best print from what
>you've got. With enough flash power you could overpower all the other
>lights and negate their contribution but that's not desirable either.
>
>If you're going digital so you can fix the color balance yourself you
>may require two scans to be able to pick up both the highlights and the
>shadows and remap to a lower dynamic range. Alternatively you may be
>able to scan just to keep the highlights in check and let the shadows
>fall where they may.
>
>Chuck Norcutt
>
>
>
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