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[OM] Re: Photos without flash - advice wanted

Subject: [OM] Re: Photos without flash - advice wanted
From: Chuck Norcutt <chucknorcutt@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Tue, 08 Nov 2005 10:46:24 -0500
Martin Walters wrote:
> 
> On my last trip, I thought that I would simply get my photos on CD and 
> address the colour issue post-processing (OM2N, auto mode, Kodak 400, 
> 100/2 probably wide open). The entertainers were well lit and the 
> lighting was static (ie, there weren't floods moving or changing colours).
> 
> To my surprise this time, I found that all such photos (the "best" one 
> can be seen at: 
> http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mwalters@xxxxxxxxxx/album?.dir=/6754&.src=ph 
> ) had blown-out highlights. The entertainers were dressed in white 
> blouses/shirts, which obviously didn't help.

I'm sure someone else with more specific experience may have some better 
suggestions but I'll address a few points.

The main point is that we are starting off begging the question of 
whether your negatives are really blown.  The scans on CD may be blown 
but that's not the same.  You really need to take a close look at the 
negatives to be sure.  Then, if the negatives are not blown, you need to 
ask to what ends you're willing to go to get better prints.

> 
> So, the questions I have are:
> 
> a) how should I meter such scenes to preserve the highlights? and

The best solution would be to walk up and meter the exact lighting with 
a gray card if you could.  Lacking that you have to guesstimate. 
Someone else may have a better suggestion but my "rules of thumb" card 
(Black Cat exposure guide) for a stage lit with spots or colored lights 
indicates 1/500 - 1/1000 second using ISO 400 film at f/2.  Probably 
faster than you guessed.


> b) can “levels” in PS (Elements 2, in my case) correct the yellow cast 
> of such photos?

Sure, but I'll bet Elements 2 has some simpler to use and more automated 
tools for fixing color balance that will get it 95% correct.  Do a 
search on the help file.  Be careful with the white balance.  If you fix 
it completely you may ruin the mood produced by the lighting.

> 
> Some thoughts on a):
> - use spot metering for highlights (if I had an OM4t);
> - use manual mode rather than auto, and meter on the highlights;

Yes, I would shoot manual mode.  That way you know what the exposure is. 
  If it's wrong this time you know how to fix it next time.

> - use auto but compensate, say -½ or -1 stop.
> 
> Of course, if all else fails, I should take a flash!

No, I wouldn't try flash, at least with the sample image you supplied. 
The image is bright enough that you don't need flash to illuminate the 
area.  The only thing the flash can accomplish is to reduce the dynamic 
range of the scene by filling the shadows which is hard to do without 
exaccerbating the already difficult dynamic range problem.  In such a 
large stage area as the sample photo covers it would take a couple of 
powerful studio flashes to produce enought light to make much difference 
to the shadows.  Concentrate on making sure the highlights are not blown 
on the negative and then figure out how to make the best print from what 
you've got.  With enough flash power you could overpower all the other 
lights and negate their contribution but that's not desirable either.

If you're going digital so you can fix the color balance yourself you 
may require two scans to be able to pick up both the highlights and the 
shadows and remap to a lower dynamic range.  Alternatively you may be 
able to scan just to keep the highlights in check and let the shadows 
fall where they may.

Chuck Norcutt



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