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[OM] Re: E-1 what's the first settings you changed

Subject: [OM] Re: E-1 what's the first settings you changed
From: Joel Wilcox <jowilcox@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2005 08:08:25 -0500
At 11:33 AM 6/10/2005 +0200, you wrote:
>With walt getting his E-1 and me getting mine a little bit before, what
>do we need to change from the default settings to get the best out of it.
>
>First thing I did was change to shoot raw and small jpeg, then moved the
>metering away from esp to centre weighted, next I changed auto focus
>point to centre.

Definitely shoot RAW.  The accompanying jpg is very optional 
IMO.  Certainly useful for a while as you evaluate your WB and saturation 
settings against the RAW version, or if you just need something quick and 
closer to web size.  Note that you have two options for the size of your 
SQ.  The 1:8 one is quite small.

But twice the number of images, despite their size, is twice the number of 
images to move around, and that equals twice the work to me at the file 
management level.

>to save me a  bit of time what should I do next to reduce post
>processing to a minimum

I use Auto WB most of the time.  Use Olympus Viewer for RAW 
conversion.  Make sure to get the update.  The histogram is very useful in 
that version and the advanced settings tab in Viewer allows you to select 
the camera settings (for saturation, sharpness, WB, etc.) or alter them 
during RAW processing.

Shooting RAW actually saves you postprocessing time with the E-1.  Sounds 
peculiar to say that.


>The OM90F2 feels so much nicer on the E-1 than the 14-45 (maybe get the
>14-54 when funds allow) that I am glad I have an adapter. I find manual
>focussing no problem yet

I know what you mean.

Other settings:

* Saturation:  I like CM2 personally
* Contrast: 0  (adjust in post with curves tool)
* Sharpness:  0 or less depending on how you work in post
* Space:  AdobeRGB matches my workflow  YMMV

Remember these do not affect the RAW image, BUT you can set Viewer to use 
the camera settings by default unless you decide to change 
them.  Discovering what works best for you for the most part teaches you 
what settings are going to be best when you don't have the luxury of 
shooting RAW.

* ISO boost:  might as well switch to on -- allows you to go beyond 800 
(but do you really need to do that?)
* S.AF + MF: switch to ON (allows you to take over manual focusing after 
using AF -- but be mindful that this only works so long as you are holding 
the shutter down halfway -- release the button and the AF takes over again 
when you depress it again

A bit more advanced stuff to consider:

* AEL/AFL -- I pondered what to do with this for a long time because the 
auto-exposure lock was really important to the way I was working with the 
C8080.  I think life is just different with the E-1.  If ESP exposure is 
suspect, I now just switch to M mode and work with manual exposure 
settings.  Chimp and adjust.
* Chimp Mode -- speaking of this -- once you've hit the display button, 
pushing the INFO button overlays the histogram.  The default setting on the 
monitor doesn't hold enough information to display the highlights very 
accurately, so one click provides a quick check of the histogram.  It is 
also possible to get the display to show blown highlights.  I don't find 
this to be necessary with the histogram available.

HTH,
Joel W.



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