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[OM] Re: OM-4T, OM-2SP Battery Consumption Problem

Subject: [OM] Re: OM-4T, OM-2SP Battery Consumption Problem
From: "John Hermanson" <omtech@xxxxxxxxx>
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2005 12:43:05 -0500
Check batteries and see if they are truly dead (I doubt they are), then 
check to make sure bottom cover screws of both bodies are tight.

John Hermanson
Camtech Photo Services, Inc.
21 South Lane, Huntington, NY, 11743-4714,
631-424-2121, www.zuiko.com
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Thomas Tonelli" <thomas.tonelli@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <olympus@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, January 02, 2005 8:46 PM
Subject: [OM] OM-4T, OM-2SP Battery Consumption Problem


>
> I would like to revisit the battery consumption issue again. I have both 
> an
> OM-2SP and an OM-4T which worked flawlessly for years without any concern
> for battery life. My usage pattern was little or no usage for months
> followed by 10 - 20 36 exp rolls of long exposure shots (1 - 2 minutes
> each). The metering systems of these two cameras were amazing in long
> exposure shots and is why I am desperately trying to determine what has 
> gone
> wrong.  I loaded two fresh 357 silver oxide batteries. I have read several
> messages regarding this issue and thought I would try one of the 
> suggestions
> below to ensure I was using the correct batteries. The OM-4T worked fine 
> for
> that first evening. I took ten shots and then put it away for the night
> stored in my camera bag at the 60 mechanical setting. The next day the
> shutter immediately froze when I attempted my first exposure and could 
> only
> be released by placing the shutter back to the red 60 or B setting.
>
>
>
> The only other possibility that may explain why the cameras worked well in
> the past is that when they worked well it was some time up to the mid 90s.
> Perhaps I was still able to use mercury batteries that were masking some
> kind of energy drain problem. Are there any other possibilities or other
> corrective actions I can take? What about the replacement of the circuit
> that has been mentioned, is this still a possibility?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Tom
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi all !
>
> I want to make a question... From such a long time I've been listen 
> problems
> with batteries on the OM group, specialy on the OM-2sp and the OM-4 (later
> models). Some people give me "solutions" like, "it was a problem from
> olympus" or "on past years the batteries where made from silver and work 
> for
> longer time" or "there is a problem with one circuit", I'm tired of that !
>
> somebody knows the real story ?
>
> Max
>
>
> Max,
> John H. has given some of the technical information and he is a definitive
> source of information.
>
> I've been using an OM-2sp and OM-4 for a while now (along with an OM-1n). 
> I
> get relatively long battery life using "357" watch cells in them. These 
> are
> also known as SR44W cells (slightly different internally than SR44 cells).
> They are made for watches and are designed for the slight drain from these
> camera bodies.
>
> The Lithium double-size 3 volt cells and Alkalines are no good; LR44, 
> LR44P,
> A76, PX76A, and KX625 cells are _Alkaline_; DO NOT USE THEM IN THESE 
> BODIES.
> The OM-2S and OM-4[ti] electronic shutter bodies are sensitive to battery
> voltage. If the voltage drops much, the shutter will lock up. Recovery is
> made by turning the shutter speed ring to the red 60 or "B" position, or 
> by
> replacing the cells with good ones. Even the battery check is often
> misleading in this regard. Lithium and Alkaline cells suffer a gradual
> voltage drop as they drain. When they reach about half life the voltage is
> too low to operate the shutter. Silver-oxide cells do not; they maintain
> nearly a constant voltage until just before end of life. The ones designed
> for watches (with the constant slight drain) hold up the best. These are
> 357, D357, SP357, V357, KS76, and SR44W (*not* SR44) cells.
>
> rant
> {begin
>    Those who insist on buying LR44, A76 or PX76A alkalines because
>    they are slightly less expensive, KNOWING the recommendation
>    to use Silver-Oxide cells, have NOTHING to moan or complain about
>    when the shutter locks up all the time and they run through them
>    faster than @#$% through a goose.  The alkaline usage rate actually
>    costs the user more not including the PITA of frequent
>    cell replacement.
> end}
>
>
> As a practical user, shooting well above average amounts of film, I get
> about 9 months from a set of cells in the OM-4 and OM-2S. How much you or
> anyone else gets depends on whether you leave the "beeper" on, how much 
> you
> use the self timer, how much you make long exposures in very low light, 
> and
> how often you use the viewfinder illuminator. On an OM-2S without the 
> flash
> ready modification that powers the "flash ready" viewfinder LED, it also
> depends on how much you use a "T" series Olympus (or compatible) flash and
> leave it turned on. The self-timer and viewfinder illuminator in 
> particular
> are a heavy load on the camera batteries. In other words, your mileage may
> vary from mine based on how often you use your camera and especially how
> often you use the higher drain functions.
>
> I believe both the OM-2S and OM-4 have a "bad rap" for "eating" batteries.
> They do consume them faster than an OM-2[n] and especially the OM-1[n]. 
> Yes,
> there are a *few* that have "bad" circuit boards with much higher than
> normal battery drain, but I also believe they are just a very few. I 
> further
> believe these battery "friendly" bodies have spoiled Olympus OM users and
> this list has made a bigger issue out of battery consumption in these 
> bodies
> than they deserve. It should be a footnote as something to watch for when
> buying a used OM-2S or OM-4 body during the first couple weeks of 
> ownership
> (see pitfalls below). The OM-4ti has an improved circuit with lower drain
> and falls between the OM-2[n] (which has a OFF position) and the OM-4 in
> consumption rate.
>
> In addition to certain uses that drain the cells faster (self-timer,
> illuminator and long exposures), improper camera bag storage of the body 
> can
> almost guarantee the cells will be dead when you pull it back out again. 
> One
> is something pressing on the viewfinder illuminator button. The other is
> something pressing slightly on the shutter release. The first will keep 
> the
> small wheat lamp in the viewfinder illuminated. The second will keep the 
> LCD
> display in the viewfinder powered (it otherwise turns itself off after a
> minute or so). The method for preventing this problem is always rotating 
> the
> shutter speed ring to the red "60" (mechanical 1/60th shutter speed) or 
> the
> red "B" (mechanical bulb) position just before storing the camera body.
> Either position immediately turns off the viewfinder illuminator function
> and the LCD display, and they cannot be reactivated until the shutter 
> speed
> is set to an electronic one. Most experienced OM-2S and OM-4[ti] users 
> will
> automatically rotate the shutter speed ring to one of the "red" positions
> just before storing the camera. I do it now without having to think about
> it.
>
> Finally, see the following two sections in the Olympus OM FAQ:
> http://brashear.phys.appstate.edu/lhawkins/photo/olympus.faq.html#ques_B1
> http://brashear.phys.appstate.edu/lhawkins/photo/olympus.faq.html#ques_B3
>
>
>
> -- John
>
>
>
>
>
>
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