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Re: [OM] flash and burned-out faces

Subject: Re: [OM] flash and burned-out faces
From: "Paul Farrar" <farrar@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 15:50:39 -0600 (CST)
> 
> At 10:52 PM 12/12/2002 -0600, Paul D. Farrar wrote:
> >...The procedure is
> >1. 400 or 800 ISO print film. 400 for brighter venues.
> 
> OK, in fact, I was using the slide film for that particular set of pictures

They make films specifically for this. The 400 or 800 speed portrait
films. I just use Walmart Superia, but that does sometimes give
poor skin tones.

> 
> >2. Set everything auto. Wide diffuser on flash for evenness.
> >3. Find a representative scene with no lights in it. Set an aperture that
> >gives
> >a shutter speed of about 1/30. Since the actual shutter speed will be 1/60,
> >areas not dominated by flash will not black out. You should be able to get
> >about f4-5.6. Then leave the aperture ring there.
> 
> Heh, if I get 1/30 w/ f4-5.6, I will probably just shoot w/o flash! But I 
> get your point....

Here's what you do. Turn the aperture ring so the shutterr speed is
over 1/60. Take the ambient light picture. Indoor ambient light usually
comes in one of two flavors: 1. Dim and orange. 2. Dim and green.
Turn the aperture ring to get 2-3 ticks below 1/60. Take your balanced
flash exposure. Turn the  ring to get a SS of 1/15 or less to get
the traditional amateur ghosts-in-a-cave shot.


> >4. Shoot away.
> >
> >Or buy a 3Ti, the only OM properly designed for indoor flash.
> 
> OK, AFAIK, the only difference is that the 3Ti does not set the shutter to 
> 1/60th right? 

That is a BIG difference. It gives you full control over both ambient
and flash. Earlier OM cameras were built for the deer-in-headlights
type flash look.

>               If so, can't I accomplish the same thing by doing the OM-4 
> slow sync hack and tape over the frontmost right contact?

No. That isn't the same thing. That only works when the shot is
ambient light dominated. That is a nice effect (much beloved by
contemporary Nat. Geog. photographers), but now that you have a
modern Metz, you can get the effect with no taping.

> 
> >Modern Metz units are handy because they have a large number of closely
> >spaced auto and manual settings, and the auto ones don't shift with ISO.
> >T20's and T32's auto and manual settings are much too strong, too few,
> >and too closely spaced for balancing with indoor ambient light at non-
> >ridiculous shutter speeds.
> 
> OK, I just bought a Metz 54-Mz tonight, they found a "demo" SCA-321 in the 
> drawer so the guy just threw it in for free ($50 value, but I buy lots of 
> stuff from them anyway...)
> 
> So what's the best way to achieve flash heaven w/ the OM4(T) and 54-MMZ 
> combo, for
> 1) indoor flash, <--- just set the thing to TTL and try to bounce? I also 
> bought a little diffuser cap...

You can do 3Ti tricks, but with auto control from the flash, not the
TTL sensor. You can't do this with OM flashes. The F280 has no auto 
mode, and the T flashes' auto modes are far too powerful. The T32's 
least powerful setting is f/11 at ISO 800, which would require a SS 
of about 1/4s or so for proper balance.

Try several shots with flash ranging from 2 stops under ambient to
2 stops over. Each level has a different effect.

> 
> and
> 2) outdoor fill flash <-- I think I finally understand this one, set the 
> aperture right below 1/60 and keep firing away :-), possibly w/ the taping 
> over the contact hack?

Put the F280 back on!

> 
> >Paul
> >
> >
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> 
> // richard <http://www.imagecraft.com> 
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> 
> 
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> 


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