Welcome back Josh, I'll take a shot at your questions...
on 8/20/02 6:08 PM, Josh Lohuis at josh1@xxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> I have been saving up a few questions over the last few weeks, and in my usual
> style, I have grouped them all up into one large message. Here goes:
>
> 1.. I have recently purchased 500 sheets of Kodak Professional B&W RC paper
> (for $50!![that is Canadian money too!]). I will undoubtedly not be able to
> use this much paper within a short time span, so how do I store it? Will
> keeping it in a fridge be best, or can it just stay at room temperature?
Refrigerate the part that you aren't going to use right away. Don't freeze
it, and put it in a zip-lock bag or something to keep moisture out. Take out
the paper you will use (e.g 50-100 sheets) ahead of time and let it warm up
to darkroom temperature (put it in a spare wrapper and photo-paper box.
> 2.. The paper I bought, and the paper we have at school, is multi-contrast.
> How and what type of filters do I use to change the grade of the paper?
> Following this, there is a red swinging filter on my(the school's) enlarger.
> I have read that this is for final composition and placement of the paper
> before exposure so that you can see the image. I once tried exposing paper
> with the filter in place, and with a 2 min exposure and 1 min development I
> still had a faint greyish image. Is this what this filter is for? Is it okay
> to use regularly, will it produce any adverse effects?
There should be 'multi-contrast' filters made by the paper manufacturer for
the paper you are using. If you have a color-head enlarger you can probably
dial in the equivalent settings for each contrast (i.e. 50 cyan 60 magenta)
in the color head. The paper data sheet may have this information on it.
> 3.. In case you forgot, I have an OM-1n that I bought at a camera shop in
> Toronto. I am not sure whether or not it has a newer type battery or one of
> the older ones. I tried to open the battery cover but the screw-driver (a
> wide one too) kept slipping. I do not want to damage the battery cover, so
> how would I find out if my camera has a new or old battery? I noticed there
> was a small hole on the batt. cover too, is there a special tool for taking it
> off? I have thought about sending it in for a CLA but seeing as how it would
> cost so much I'm not sure that it would be worth it. Is a CLA that important?
> Should it be done?
The best US coin I have found for most battery covers is the 5-cent piece.
It may be too thick unless you get one that is a little worn, but it has a
smooth rim to avoid scarring the cover, and the curvature is about right for
the curve of the battery cover slot. I'm not sure if the Canada nickel is
the same, a long time ago Canada nickels were 8- or 10-sided instead of
round. That wouldn't work...
CLA is a good idea, for the cost it is like getting a new camera. However,
if your camera is working well in exposure metering (the slides appear to be
coming out good and the shutter speeds therefore are fairly accurate) and
the foam seals are not sticky or gummy, then you probably don't need one
-right away-.
> 4.. I will be going to Europe this May (14th to 25th) with my school, and as
> you can imagine I plan on taking a few pictures. We will be flying to Toronto
> then TO to Switzerland and then by train/bus to Italy and then France. I'm
> sure things might change from now to then, but I was wondering if I will
> really "need" or have use for any equipment other than I already have. I have
> an OM-1n(not sure if CLAed or new batt), Zuiko 50 1.8, 28 3.5, 200 4, Sigma
> 135 2.8, 49mm #25? Red, 49mm 80B, Cable release, Lowepro Nova 2 Bag, Vivitar
> 2800 Flash (more on this later), Eyecup 1 (not in my possession yet), hoods
> for the 28 and the 50, and a Velbon Sherpa 250? Tripod, plus a few odds and
> ends. So, other than some macro tubes and a slide projector which I am
> frantically searching for (Anybody got some???), will I need or have use for
> anything else?
I'm assuming that you mean May 2003... I would maybe want a lens a little
wider, no need to get spendy about it. The 18-28/4.0-4.5 Samigon lens I have
would give you a range of perspectives. This is to some degree a matter of
personal taste. While not likely as high-quality as Zuiko primes it covers a
range of wide angles in one piece, something to consider when travelling
light. If you get one of these you can leave the 28/3.5 home. You might want
to consider a quality 2X teleconverter, used with the 135 and 200 lenses for
pulling in archetectural (I bet I spelled that wrong...) details without
carrying much extra weight.
Take lots of film... figure out how much you think you want, and then take
about twice that much. Shoot lots of pictures; unless you think you will get
back to Europe 'next week' it might be a while and as a 'once in a great
while' opportunity you shouldn't short yourself on film and pictures. While
on the trip, take pictures of your friends and people around you as well as
the buildings and scenics. In looking back at pictures I took 25 years ago,
the ones I really like to see now are the (too few) pictures I took of my
friends and family back then. I have way too many pictures of forests,
buildings, trees, etc. and not enough of my family and friends...
> 5.. My Flash. I don't like it. Its too small for anything I want to do, and
> it has an auto-off "feature" which has ruined more than one picture. I would
> like to get something that I could set-up off camera, possibly on a grip with
> a little more power than what is currently available. I am trying to look
> around but there is too much for me to choose from. The next time I have a
> chance I plan on going to a bunch of second-hand stores and looking for
> something that fits my criteria. What should I be looking for? I have no idea
> what would be good or bad. I need help!
Vivitar 2800 is a good little flash. For OM-1n you might consider finding a
T-32 and Bounce Grip 2. This will really only give you the 'ready light' in
the viewfinder, but if you get an OM-2, 3, or 4 later it will give you TTL
flash. It has more power than a Vivitar 2800, although it is bigger too. I
wouldn't hang the T-32 from the on-camera flash shoe, as the flash is pretty
heavy and bulky mounted there, one reason why there are so many cracked Shoe
4's out there...
> 6.. My final question: A light meter. I have been also wanting one of these,
> and again, searching frantically with no luck. I will look when I go to the
> second hand stores, but in this small town I doubt i'll find anything that was
> built later than the 50's. I want it to be able to get an exposure off a
> certain item instead of a center-weighted reading (from the 1n). I would like
> it to double as a flash meter for future use as well. What should I be
> looking for? I need help again!
Don't know much about light meters with flash capability, but I have an old
Gossen Luna-Pro that is a really good meter. Minolta makes good light/flash
meters, I think Sekonic does also. Probably there is a newer Gossen meter
with flash capability too. Figure to spend $100-200 for a good newer one...
If you can do without the flash metering capability, you have a broader
range and quite a bit lower cost.
> Thank-you in advance for any light (hehe, photography pun) you can shed on
> any/all of my "problems".
>
> Josh Lohuis
> ( I will ask how often we clean our printer lenses tomorow night as I am
> working)
>
Hope my answers can help you some.
--
Jim Brokaw
OM-1's, -2's, -4's, (no -3's yet) and no OM-oney...
< This message was delivered via the Olympus Mailing List >
< For questions, mailto:owner-olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx >
< Web Page: http://Zuiko.sls.bc.ca/swright/olympuslist.html >
|