> The use of on-camera flash for "nature" macros is obvious in the
> photograph.
Which photograph are you talking about ?
Direct lighting is always a problem with on camera flash. The thing that I
particularly dislike is
a burnt out highlight especially in glossy subjects. I have tried off camera
with my T-18 (which
I unfortunately lost in my Utah trip last week :-(( Heck , why was I even
carrying that?) but not
with much success. John Shaw in his classic 'Closeups in Nature' suggests
'plasic bowl lighting', where
a plastic bowl acts as a diffuser. I haven't tried that yet, but it appears it
will soften the effect of a flash to
some degree.
-Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: "John A. Lind" <jlind@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2002 9:36 PM
Subject: Re: [OM] Adventures in Macrophotography (asking for recommendations)
> At 23:57 4/7/02, Tim Chakravorty wrote:
> >Were you using a flash when you were taking hand held macro shots ? If
> >not, you will be amazed at what a flash can do to picture sharpness when
> >doing handheld macro. Just make sure you are using an aperture small
> >enough so there is no secondary exposure from ambient light. If your
> >objective is to use natural light only, then its different of course. In
> >that case wind is another problem and you will have no choice but to use a
> >flash.
> >-Tim
>
> The use of on-camera flash for "nature" macros is obvious in the
> photograph. It creates a harsh, very direct frontal lighting "look" to
> them. I've been working on methods for very diffused off-camera lighting
> without much success outdoors. Still experimenting with it, but have not
> found a method yet that has a natural look to it; use of flash remains a
> method of absolute last resort.
>
> To mitigate wind, I've used sticks, twigs, branches, and moved parts of
> nearby plants or trees to immobilize the subject plant. As a last resort
> with one that is swaying predictably, I've set up the framing at the apex
> of its motion and then timed shutter release when it's at the apex. This
> works to about 1/15th second if the camera is on tripod, but often requires
> 3-4 exposures to ensure one of them has the exact timing.
>
> -- John
>
>
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