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Re: [OM] Help... my big mouth!

Subject: Re: [OM] Help... my big mouth!
From: "John A. Lind" <jlind@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 23:58:30 +0000
And an additional $.01

If you're comfortable using a zoom, and can work its focal length and focus rings relatively quickly indoors, use it. The trade-off is a somewhat dimmer viewfinder compared to a faster prime. If you can get into where the event will be held and have the level of lighting set to what you will encounter, wander around and spend a little time composing and focusing on various objects at various distances. It will validate the focal length range you will need and tell you whether or not you're likely to have problems working zoom on the Big Day. I was very, very glad I did this once.

Using the gear you listed, I've found the following setup effective shooting similar events: OM-2n with winder, and the BG-2 to its right with the BG-2 shutter release button cabled to the winder. Run the OM-2n and T-32 TTL-Auto (assuming you can cable the OM-2n to the BG-2 for this). Many will take the neck strap off the body in this configuration if there's one normally on it. From a neck strap, the whole affair wants to droop to the right and it can be uncomfortable. Left dangling freely it can end up in front of the lens. If you have the winder/BG-2 wrist strap and your hand isn't too big for it, try putting it on the BG-2. If it feels reasonably comfortable, it's much easier to hang on to the BG-2 handle securely for long periods. You don't have to keep as tight a grip on the BG-2 handle when you're not shooting.

Given a single T-32, I concur with the ISO 400 recommendations already made. ISO 400 should work unless you need very long distances or near instantaneous flash recharge. Your advantage is the T-32 in a BG-2. I don't recommend trying to use the Wide Angle Diffuser on the T-32 (if you have one). You'll lose too much flash power. You should be able to work it at f/5.6 with ISO 400 film and not have to wait very long for the flash ready light to come back up again. You'll also get more ambient light. My charts (a film speed, distance, and flash GN "cheat sheet") show you should have a working range of over 25 feet at f/5.6 using ISO 400 film and a T-32 before you feel the effects of waiting very long for flash recharge. Don't open up to f/4 unless you must from lack of light, and if you do, focus as carefully as possible.

If you don't have any rechargeables, consider investing in some NiMH cells and an NiMH charger for the T-32 and BG-2. I didn't think it would make that much difference compared to alkalines, but it does. It's all I use now in the flash units. Recharge them the day before and have two sets (one in flash gear and one spare), plus another extra set of alkalines. If you have extra flash gear, take it as backup! Take the OM-1 as a backup body. Preset it to your film speed and 1/60th second the night before.

If you deliberately pose people, try to keep them at least several feet in front of walls or other vertical backdrops. The object is to let shadows fall down behind people. If they're up against a wall, the shadow(s) will be nearly as tall as the person casting it.

Several things I look for during a "recon mission" on a reception hall:
(a) Look for mirrors, large windows, pictures or other artwork covered in glass, and anything else that's similar (flat, smooth and highly reflective). Make note of these and avoid shooting directly at them! The flash reflection will cause an enormous, horrible looking flare. If any windows have curtains or blnds, see if you can find the mechanism to close them and figure out how to work it. I do this if at all possible, often without asking any permission. [Had a running battle one time during an afternoon reception; someone there was a "sun lover" and kept insisting on opening them; direct sun kept throwing horrid, very harsh shadows all over the hall.] Look at the finish on the wall. High gloss smooth wood paneling can also flare a flash back into a lens; not much you can do about it except avoid shooting straight at it. (b) Look for "Exit" signs and other objects on walls or hanging from ceilings that can be very distracting in a photograph. Think about how to position yourself to avoid having them in the background. Even a light switch on a light colored wall, or the brushed aluminum bar on an emergency exit door can be distracting. (c) If there's a stage, dias, platform and/or podium, look for where to position yourself and what distance you would like to use from where a speaker would stand. (d) If at all possible, get there early, verify the setup has not changed for the day of the event and look for anything that might not have been there before, or that you might have missed. Look for a *secure,* out of the way place you can stash your camera bag where snoopy people won't get into it or try to steal it. Never has been a problem for me, but I've been living and doing this around places where people routinely leave their cars running with the doors unlocked in bank and post office parking lots.

-- John


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