Since your trees aren't moving, use longer exposures with ordinary lights
and tungsten film, or use small halogen desklamps.
On Monday, February 04, 2002 at 2:56, T.Clausen@xxxxxxxxxxxx
<olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote re "Re: [OM] Macro flash'es...what's re" saying:
...
> One thing, which I probably neglected to mention in my mail, was that the
> majority of the macro's I'll be taking will be in-door. As some may
> remember from a thread on backdrops, I'm also cultivating bonsai's. While
> entire bonsai's are not small enough to call for macro-photos, their
> various leaf and trunk-parts are (for those interrested: mainly to record
> growth-history as well as document bug- and disease-attacks). Not having a
> garden, I'm confined to photograph indoors, where (not surprisingly)
> artificial light is required.
>
> I'd much prefer not to use a form of studio spots, permanently
> illuminating the subject while setting up/focusing etc: they have a
> tendancy of generating much heat on the subject, something which dries out
> the poor trees (and I am told that turning on and off is not good for the
> spots). That's why I'm looking at various flash options.
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tOM Trottier, ICQ:57647974 http://abacurial.com
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"The moment one gives close attention to anything,
even a blade of grass, it becomes a mysterious,
awesome, indescribably magnificent world in itself --
Henry Miller, 1891-1980
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