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Re: [OM] Yet More photos

Subject: Re: [OM] Yet More photos
From: Motor Sport Visions Photography <msvphoto@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Sun, 02 Sep 2001 08:38:03 -0700
In a message dated 9/2/2001 Richard Keefer writes:

<< Two questions for you and the group - always a problem in my
car/airplane/train photos -

Always the glare from the glass - any reliable way to stop that? >>

Not that I'm aware of...any suggestions out there? I suppose a polarizer
might help but I don't use them much so I wouldn't know from experience.
The worst glare I have experienced in recent times was from my recent
trip to Watkins Glen. There were thunder storms and the sun kept coming
in and out of the clouds and at certain times while shooting at the exit
of "the boot" the glare that came out on my slides was horrendous. Cloud
and/or fog reflections seem to be the worst for glare. In racing events
you do not always have the luxury of cars on course with the light from
the right direction at the right time of the day so you take your
chances with what is presented to you and try to make the most of it.

<< Speed - the cars look like they are posed on the road - how do you
convey speed without compromising sharpness and clarity? >>

Practice, practice, practice...slow shutter speeds and lots of tossed
shots in your editing sessions. Keeping sharpness and clarity while
blurring the background and making the car look fast is the trade-off
when shooting panned shots. Smooth steady panning and slow shutter
speeds are the order of the day... I try to get good blur in the
wheels/tires, and some at the ends of the car is acceptable as long as
some interesting part of the car remains sharp...that is what I strive
for, but do not always achieve. Frozen in time is a good thing (in my
opinion) for frontal or 3/4 view frontal action shots (helps if the car
is lifting a wheel, smoking a tire, or something dramatic). Lately I
have been getting some very nice panned results with the 350/2.8 off my monopod.

Mike, you have some nice lenses for racing work...for panned shots try
and get close enough to not need the converter on your 80-200/2.8 and
shoot slow film (I shoot Provia F but if you want negatives try NPS or
Reala). Practice some pans before shooting and be sure to continue
panning to then end of your arc, well after the shutter release point.
Work out the lines the drivers use for your prefocus point and be
smooth. On my OM-2S or OM-4T I set aperature for a displayed reading of
~1/60 to 1/125 at 200mm in most cases to try and get high keep/toss
ratios of panned shots...lower if I really want to push the envelope.

Hope this helps.

Mike Veglia
Motor Sport Visions Photography
http://www.motorsportvisions.com

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