Top and bottom are plastic, with a ultra thin metallic coating, (like
painted on) ( for shielding) then painted. The following have plastic tops
and bottoms: OM-10 (early production have metal bottoms), OM-G, OM-F,
OM-PC, 2000.
John Hermanson
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Joel Wilcox" <jdubikins@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2001 12:48 AM
Subject: Re: [OM] Another OM-PC Question...
| >From: "Curtis P. Hedman" <Curtis.P.Hedman-1@xxxxxxxxxx>
| The responses I've gotten on my 'oil-canning'
| >base plate
| >suggest that I should unscrew the three base plate screws to see if any
of
| >the holes in the base plate are 'stripped out'. Any concerns that I need
to
| >watch out for? Nothing is going to pop out if I do something in the wrong
| >order? Just trying to be cautious.
|
| I would just forget about it. The bottom of the OMPC I believe is
| plastic-covered copper (?) and is just a little gimpier than a "real" OM
| bottom plate. If it gets dented a little in one place, it can "oil can" in
| another. I have one like this and it works fine. I wouldn't remove the
| screws unless you have something in mind to do. Let's say you remove the
| bottom and the screws are indeed stripped out. What next?
|
| >Third question: Does anyone know if the Sunpak 433 D flash with Olympus
| >dedicated module works as a TTL flash? Naturally it came with no
| >instruction manual.....
|
| Yes, TTL absolutely, and it is a dandy flash. Did you get the zoom head
with
| it? That's a nice accessory. The ability to cut the output to 1/2, 1/4,
1/8/
| and 1/16 makes it very useful for fill flash and closeups.
|
| I think you made a really good purchase. Congratulations!
|
| Joel W.
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