Hi,
I have taken many night shots with my OM 10 many years ago with proper results.
Measuring at open aperture and calculating the way Ian proposed works fine. You
can add additional metering range by setting the ASA dial to 1600 and the
calculate back. Each doubling of the ASA no. means half the exposure time.
For very dark shots, use the "Bulb" mode and a lockable remote release and try
to shoot a series of exposures: 2sec, 4 sec, 8 sec....several minutes. Shooting
a starry sky w/o moonlight, you can keep the shutter open for even half an hour
without overexposures. Maybe the astrophotographers around in this list have a
clue?
Bernd
> 1) Take an exposure reading with the lens wide open then stop down &
> recalculate the exposure time for the actual photo - even at dusk you
> could get something like 1/4s at F/2 (=1s at f/4, 4s at f/8 etc)
>
> 2) Get hold of a lightmeter that works in low light.
>
> For those two methods, you might need to know about the reciprocity
> failure of the film (details can often be found on the manufacturer's
> web site somewhere).
>
>
> 3) Use the iterative method - guess, look at the results and try again
> until it comes out right. Needs lots of short rolls of film, several
> nights and a strict regime for note-taking.
>
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