Hi all,
There are a couple of things I have not been able to discern from handling
the equipment, or looking at the manuals. With the camera and flash in auto
otf mode, can I do fill flash? What effect does the +- knob have? Does it
affect the flash exposure? Is the camera even looking at ambient light? Is
there a threshhold at which the flash will not fire? Is there an indicator
of this? I had the flash on, colorful village and autumn leaves in the
background with the shadowed subjects in the foreground. Selected an
aperture that put the shutter on the longer side of 1/60, but the flash
didn't go off, and the subject was totally dark. Classic picture of what not
to do. I had hoped for 4 smiling, unsquinting faces. I got 4 silhouettes.
If I set the camera to manual, adjust the shutter(1/60 or longer) and
aperture so that the flash will expose to 1/2 stop less than the meter calls
for, will I get a fill effect? Of course, in this instance I've flipped the
calc panel and selected the appropriate aperture setting on that switch.
Also, there are plenty of times when the 'sufficient light' blinking doesn't
happen, but the exposure is just fine (especially in large places). Is it
that a full powered flash in auto mode won't be considered sufficient by the
system? Or is the blinking just an indicator that the thyristor clamped the
output?
And for those of you who followed my OMG and Vivitar 283 woes. I have
verified that the OMG works perfectly with the T-32. No off synch shots. You
may recall that up to 1/3 of my shots with the 283 had synch problems
(manual mode @ 1/60). There is one major difference I measured between the 2
flashes. The 283 trigger voltage (old model) is near 600v!! The T-32 trigger
voltage is 6. I checked 2 other vintage flash units. A Sunpak had 400+ and a
smaller Vivitar had 200+. If anyone can describe a small circuit I could
introduce between the OMG and the 283 to expose only 6v to the camera, I'd
be interested in trying it.
Thanks to all you Zuikothusiasts!
Mickey
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