>
>1. My OM 1n and 2s have curtain speeds of ~1/90 sec. If you have a
>flash source that has a duration of (1/90 + Shutter speed + a fudge
>factor), the exposure would depend on the uniformity of the light
>output during that time. True or False
>
I'll take "true" for a hundred.
>2. Is it possible to "String" a small number of flashes together with
>a delay circuit between each to approximate the situation in item 1? I
>have two A11's, they are fairly cheap and small, but it wouldn't be
>pretty.
>
yes.
>3. Earlier in this thread someone mentioned "modeling lights" as a
>solution. Does anyone know how long it takes a 12v Halogen Flood light
>to come on to full power? Is it possible to use these as a flash bulb
>using the "FP" setting then turn them off automatically to conserve the
>batteries. I am thinking of the type of lights I have on my bike and
>with reasonably small batteries they last for an hour or two. Maybe
>using smaller batteries and a "Flash" circuit the lights could yield
>acceptable results. Filters may / will be needed to balance the color.
>
a lot longer than an electronic flash. but, you can't use 12V bulbs. Flash
tubes used in electronic flash operate at several hundred volts. You can get
surplus tubes from electronic surplus dealers, as well as the special
photoflash capacitors that you will need. Schematics are widely available.
But, you might as well just buy the proper gear instead of trying to make
everything from scratch. No sense in reinventing the wheel.
>4. Basically same as above but using Camcorder Auxiliary lights.
>
no.
>5. Back up lights from my SUV ( getting this thread back to the
>obligatory SUV content)
>
no.
--
Be Seeing You.
Dirk Wright
There is no satisfaction in hanging a man who does not object to it
-- G. B. Shaw
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