...
>What I need:
>-Very reliable TTL/OTF metering with good T-flash performance (may also use
>some off-brand flashes).
That cuts it to 2, 2n, 2s, 40/PC, 4, 4t/ti, 3ti. My experience has been that
the 2n has a wider range of TTL than the 4t. 3Ti has the best arrangement for
mixing ambient and flash.
>-Shot bracketing (something more accurate than the matched needle on my
>OM-1's).
All can use exposure compensation. 3 & 4 have 1/3 stop bar graphs in display.
>-Manual as well as automatic exposure.
Cuts out 3Ti.
>-cable release port.
All have. You may find winder and electrical release preferable.
>-NO DOUBLE DIGIT OM's (bad experiences with macro sharpness using OM-PC)
Cuts out 40/PC.
>
>What I can do without (even though it'd be nice to have them)
>-Self timer
3Ti doesn't have.
>-2 series screens
I think you do need this. Macro can lead to some awfully dim viewfinder
images, especially when you check DOF. You may need a 1-12 screen too, but
that's not for general use.
>-Flash-ready LED
I think you do need this. More for the confirm than the ready.
>-Titanium body
>
Having the cord socket built in is handy because you can use multiple
flashes more easily. (One in shoe. One on cord. But if the one in the shoe
is a T32 or a T-power control, you can use the socket on its side.) Also the
built in shoes
seem sturdier than the screw-ins.
Take a 4T. Give it the sync speed of the 2000. Give it the selectable TTL
flash with manual of the 3Ti. Throw in separate flash and ambient exposure
compensation dials and the choice of second-curtain sync. That's the camera
you want.
Paul
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