> That said, metering your hand is hardly spot metering. What do you do
> when the object you want to spot meter is 10 yds away? 100yds, a
> mile? How do you do spot averaging?
Easy. Put your hand in the same light. Is the item in bright light? Sunny
16. Is it in shade? put your hand in shade.
> On your other point, 1/3 stop doesn't mean a lot for print film, but
> for transparencies (or IR film), 1/3 stop can be the difference
> between an acceptable shot and a shot that gets EVERYTHING right.
> Even on proint film, 2/3 stop can make a world of difference for
> contrast and saturation. One of my favorite techniques for sports
> photography is to overexpose rated ASA by 2/3 stop - makes players
> really jump off the film.
2/3 stop is very noticable. 1/3 is noticable. Less than 1/3 is hard pick. I
use Kodachrome 64 pretty much exclusively.
> The 4t also has a host of other advantages - aperture and mirror
> pre-fire, 1/2000 shutter speed, 2 series and Beattie screens, TTL
> flash, auto mode, OTF metering, etc, etc, etc.
Most of my shooting is less than 1/500 (K64!). I've never had a need for
1/2000 speeds.
My 1n is calibrated for 2/13 screen.
TTL flash is good for macro. Fill flash is better with manual or normal
auto. A person with no background is best with manual or IVP on the iS
series. I do like TTL flash, and wish the 1n had it. Theoretically, it is
possible.
I believe OTF is only really useful for long time shots. The light doesn't
change that much in 1/15 of a second (flash excluded!). I've go some great
fireworks and aurora shots with my 2SP that I couldn't have got any other
way.
> SO while I'd be hard pressed to criticize the OM-1 (I've had mine for
> 19 years!), to compare match needle metering and manual exposure to
> teh OM-4T's multi-spot metering and auto exposure just doesn't hold
> water.
Don't get me wrong, the OM4Ti is a great camera. Multispot has some
advantages. I'm just a 1n junkie. The worst type of Zuikoholic.
Foxy 8-{}
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