Ron Z writes:
<< Does anyone have any suggestions for taking pictures from a Cessna?
Any tricks, tips, suggestions or warnings on exposure, shutter speed,
film, etc.? I plan to take my OM2n and several lenses. It is going
to be a new adventure for me. Maybe you can help me avoid some real
basic common errors. >>
1. Get the pilot or plane owner to unhinge the passenger window
retainer. It is a bar-like thing that doesn't allow it to open enough
for optimal shooting. You will find that the window pretty well stays
open for you while shooting after this temporary modification.
2. Tape your lens to infinity. If you use a zoom, pick a two touch so
you can tape the focusing ring down.
3. Go with high shutter speeds (1/500th or more) at the sake of
aperture. But do reference my lens tests to make sure you won't be
shooting at an aperture that is too open for fine images. Fast primes,
like a 35mm f/2, 50mm f/1.4, 85mm f/2 are optimal for this, although
zooms allow quicker shooting of fast changing scenery.
4. Use a Winder or Motor Drive. Things happen too fast to be thinking
about manual film advance. Ideally have the Grip Strap secure on your
wrist. If not, have the neck strap around your neck. In the
excitement/wind stream you might loose your grip. I've only lost maps .
. . Try and extend neck straps so the camera rests on your lap. Weight
on your neck can easily lead to a near migrane headache from a flight. I
had headaches after nearly every photo recon flight I took as a
biologist. Some put me in bed for half a day afterwards. Seriously, for
anyone doing this on a regular basis, Darvon and a prescription motion
sickness patch are great preventive medicine. But a turbulent day will
do anyone in.
5. Underexpose 1/3 stop on light haze and 2/3rds on moderate haze. With
heavy haze (like southeastern US summer days), you just aren't going to
get very good shots unless it is close to sun-up or sun-down. Those are
the ideal times to shoot.
6. Don't watch the ground when bank turning. Try closing your eyes and
pretend you are floating. You'll need a barf bag if you don't - and may
need one anyways from the stress of the photography.
7. Don't stick the camera out the window and into the air stream.
8. A Polarizing filter can be very effective, esp. when shooting water.
But it cuts down the light tremendously. I'd have a second body with
faster film handy. If you have a 50mm f/1.4 on it, you can shoot at
f/2.8 with excellent results. But use it sparingly since fidgeting with
the polarizing ring is time wasted viewing a good shot.
9. Reflected sunlight (like off water) will underexpose your shots. The
Sunny 16 rule applies to oblique aerial photography the same as it does
to ground photography.
10. Shoot between 500 and 1,000 ft. above ground level elevation.
Explore getting the horizon in shots to give perspective. Explore the
change in light on a scene by circling a subject. Unless it is high
noon, one angle will look best. Be prepared for it on the second go
around.
11. Use 36 exposure loads. Take extra camera bodies with film loaded,
since it will be at the end of a roll when that great shot appears!
12. Keep the wing strut and bottom of the wing out of the picture. A few
simple hand signals will help the pilot know what you want him/her to
do, because there will be times you need a little plane adjustment to
get a shot. It is too loud to shout in the cabin, esp. with the window
open. Even headset verbal communications can be confusing.
The sickness issues are the downside to this. If you do the shooting and
the navigation (like to premapped sites), it is EXHAUSTING work. A great
pilot is one that can take your map and get you to site A, B, C, etc.
I'd fly 35-70 sites per 3-5 hour flight. But that is probably beyond
what you plan. Enjoy!
Gary Reese
Las Vegas, NV
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