Jim, the OM's are designed to make the _apparent_ distance of the
focusing screen something greater than normal reading distance. I
thought it was about one meter but notice that Shipman's book says it's
about an arm's length away. If you only need glasses for distant objects
you probably don't need optical correction at the camera viewfinder.
But, to be sure, remove the lens from the camera and point the camera at
a bright diffuse surface such as the sky or a light colored wall. You
should be able to clearly see the grain of the focusing screen and the
edge of the focusing aid circle as a distinct line. If you can't see
the pebbley surface of the screen you need some optical aid.
ps: If you need optical correction you don't need a _variable_ dioptric
correction... you need a _specific_ optical correction for your
particular eyes. The OM-3 and -4 have a built-in variable correction.
Since it's built-in it needs to be variable to suit any user. For other
OM's the correction is an add-on. First you add an eyecup and put the
appropriate corrective lens inside the retaining ring of the eyecup.
The OM part is called "Eyecup-1" but there are 3rd party eyecups (which
I like better) that will also hold a corrective lens. The correct lens
is one which allows you to see sharply something that's at arm's
length... maybe none with your case of nearsightedness.
Chuck Norcutt
Woburn, Massachusetts, USA
------------------------------------------------------------
I am a bit near sighted and need glasses for driving. I find this no
problem when looking through a telescope since I can adjust the focus to
my eyes.
My OM-1 is a different matter. I'm not sure if I need a variable
dioptric corrector or not. How can I tell if I need dioptric corection
at the view finder and how much? Some of my photos are sharply in focus
others are not.
- --
jim mueller
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