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RE: [OM] ...verdigris.....

Subject: RE: [OM] ...verdigris.....
From: Garth Wood <garth@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Fri, 05 Nov 1999 08:33:45 -0700
At 08:29 AM 11/5/99 +0000, you wrote:
>At 04:56 PM 11/4/99 -0600, you wrote:
>>Re-tinning the contacts sounds like a lot of work for marginal benefit! I
>would
>>suggest getting some 'De-Oxit' from Fargo enterprises
>> http://www.microtools.com ) or some other source, and apply to the well
>>cleaned contacts leaving a thin film. That would probably keep you out of
>>trouble.
>>
>
>a problem with re-tinning is that the heat from the soldering iron could
>melt some of the plastic that supports the contact, making for a worse
>problem than you started with. you'd have to completely disassemble the
>unit so that you had the bare contact in your hands, then you could tin it.
>if it's rusty, you'll have to de-rust it completely otherwise nothing will
>stick to it. I fixed my wife's vivitar flash with a rusty contact with just
>some scotchbrite abrasive pad. no biggie.


Yes, as I recall, I suggested using abrasives and/or methanol or isopropanol 
first.  As for re-tinning, it's a delicate job, but an appropriate heat-sink 
between the contact being re-tinned and any plastic parts can do wonders.  (I 
use a surgical clamp as a heat-sink, coating the jaws with a little silicone 
grease to improve heat transfer.)  All this assumes, of course, that you don't 
have to work in a restricted physical space.  If you can't disassemble your 
components and work with them that way, re-tinning -- in fact, even using 
abrasives -- becomes problematic.

I tried to use a simple eraser on the end of a pencil to clean the contacts in 
the battery compartment of my Winder 2 *without* taking the Winder 2 apart.  
What a pain in the ass.  Anyways, to make a long story short, my Winder had 
bigger problems -- I sent it in to the shop, and after a cleaning and a 
replacement circuit board, it's as good as new (it had better be -- cost me 
over 400f the price of a new Winder 2!).

Garth

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