BILL F BROOKS wrote:
>
> OK I give, how much of a major pain is it to get @ that particular piece
> of offensive foam? It was barely tedious to de-foam/re-foam the back
> plate, and while I'm loathe to ruin my freshly aquired OM-1, the last few
> threads I saw on foam said the silent killer of pentaprisms is that piece
> of foam...I can be rather meticulous if I want to be, and if the rewards
> are great enough (a pentaprism that will never die! ...unless I drop it
> >;( )
> I would be greatly tempted to try this @ home.
>
> I *can* solder, so if I have the same trouble as Jay had perhaps I could
> fix that, however, I don't have a spare pentaprism just laying about
> unless an OM-10's would work, and even then I'd be reluctant to kill the
> -10 to save a -1 (the -10's been a much misaligned camera IMMHO, "it's
> not sleek and it's not fast but it gets me goin' where I want to go...")
>
> Lars, it sounds like you just "popped off the top" of your -1, you made
> it sound easy (well at least not impossible) How do ya do it?
>
> Bill >; )
>
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Well there are a few obstacles, but I have done it so many times
now that I can do it in a couple of minutes. The procedure I use
is:
1. Remove the rewind handle. To do that, open the camera back, hold
the rewind axle in place (Olympus specifies a special tool here)
and twist off the rewind knob.
I replace the special tool with a piece of soft leather and a pair of
flat pliers, gripping the "fork" engaging the axle in the film
cartridge. Be careful, these are aluminium parts, which are relatively
easily damaged.
2. Remove the wind lever. This is a tricky one. You need a special
tool suitable for the top part with the two holes in it. It is
really a just screw, but you need something to turn it. Either
you use something that fits in the two holes and scratch the
black top plate during the process or you may be able to turn
the screw with a rubber cork like those used for chemical lab
equipment. Once the screw has come off, lift off the wind lever
and the washers. This exposes a flat, wide nut, also with two
holes in it. This one can only be turned with something that
fits the holes. I use a round nosed plier.
3. Remove the flat nut around the hot shoe socket. A good pair of
scissors can grip the notches in the nut without scratching the
top cover if one is careful.
4. Unscrew the two black screws in the black thing under the rewind
knob. Use a Philips #0 screwdriver. This is one you need badly,
if you are trying any kind of camera repair.
5. Now you should be able to lift off the top cover. Be careful and
lift straight up. There is a spring used to keep the back cover
latch in place, which has a tendency to fall out.
Assembly is just the reverse order. The major problem in assembly
os to get the ASA dial to reconnect properly. Officially it should
be set to 100 ASA before disassembly.
All screws turn the normal way round.
In the good old days, that is until about a month ago, I used a
home made tool for the screws with the teo holes in them. Now I
use my fine new spanner wrench with pencil point blades on it.
That is so much easier.
Need I say that you should not start working on the camera unless
you have at least some idea of what you are doing? And that you
can easily make a total mess of the camera?
Regards
Lars
--
Lars Haven <mailto:lhaven@xxxxxxxxxxxx> http://isa.dknet.dk/~lhaven
"When writing about women, one must dip one's pen in a rainbow"
D. Diderot
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