Just for the record, the 2N has a long exposure limit of 3.5 minutes, not 2
minutes.
John
Ken Norton wrote:
> Welcome to the list.
>
> The OM-1 is a fine camera and one that you wouldn't regret getting, however...
>
> An OM-2 would probably be a better choice for you. The OM-1 is strictly a
> manual camera with nothing automatic about it. It has only the meter
> needle to inform you of proper exposure and that's it. Also, it has no
> provision for long shutter speeds except for bulb setting. Any of the OM-2
> series of cameras (OM-2md, OM-2n, OM-2s, OM-2sp) will give up to 2-minute
> exposures with average ISO film. Just put it in auto and fire away. (The
> origional OM-2md will actually go longer in exposure as it didn't have the
> cutoff circuit).
>
> The OM-2 and OM-4 series of cameras have a very nice feature not found in
> any other camera line: Off-the-film-metering. In laymen's terms, this
> means that when you are taking your night shot and the lighting changes
> DURING the exposure, the camera adjusts accordingly as it is actually
> measuring the light falling on the film. This also means that the exposure
> is not affected by light entering the viewfinder either. Add a flash to
> this system and the camera actually controls the flash during the exposure,
> shutting off the flash when enough light has hit the film.
>
> You will not get aperature readings in the viewfinder on any OM camera.
> Shutter speed, yes, but aperature, no.
>
> Another nifty feature of the OM flash control is that the shutter speed
> will be 1/60 of a second with the flash (normal usage, I'm referring to
> here, not the wierd exceptions), but the viewfinder display will show what
> the ambient lighting level is. If you are trying to keep your wedding
> shots from appearing like they were taken in a cave this is extremely handy
> as you just adjust the lens opening to achieve the flash/fill ratio that
> you desire (up to 1:1).
>
> As far as lenses are concerned. If nightime pictures are your primary
> focus, I would look seriously at the 50/1.8 or the 50/1.4. Both are
> excellent, but flare control is probably a bit better in the 1.8. I
> primarily use three lenses for nightime: 35shift, 50/1.4, and 100/2.8.
> All are top notch and produce razer sharp images regardless of the lighting.
>
> Another option that you might look at: Olympus has the IS series of
> cameras. These are Zoom-Lens-Reflex cameras that do not take
> interchangeable lenses. My IS-1 just got stolen and I'm looking to replace
> it with an IS-3. The lens is very good, the viewfinder bright and does
> show both shutter speed and aperature. Furthermore, it has nightime modes
> which bring this camera into the must have for nightime work. I have
> several nightime shots that have made into print and one into widespread
> use as a screen background from the IS-1. One cool feature is the zoom in
> nightime mode. You press the shutter and then the zoom button of the
> direction you want it to zoom and it will properly expose the shot and then
> zoom in/out to achieve the "exploding lights" look. Best feature of all,
> in the IS-1 is the spot metering. (the OM-2s, OM-3t, and OM-4(ti) all have
> spot meters)
>
> I wouldn't worry too much about buying a camera with the "hole in the
> bottom" provided it spent all of its life on a winder or motor drive. The
> big problem is that the OM-1 and OM-2 cameras (non S models) have the
> internal mechanism pretty open and dirt/dust/moisture can really crud up
> the internals. I would be asking serious questions about the camera's
> heritage and if you can't get satisfactory answers I probably wouldn't
> bother with the camera. Especially if they are asking $200. If it is in
> perfect condition and an OM-1n model maybe, but it might be a bit high
> otherwise.
>
> Again, welcome to the list. I'll try to not be as verbose next time.
>
> Ken Norton
>
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