A 4 with the original board might let batteries live for 3 months (if using
357s). All silver oxides are not alike. Do not use lithium or alkaline power.
John
Camtech
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/olympustech1997
John Austin wrote:
> Hi Kennedy,
>
> Thanks for the feedback. I'll talk to the dealer about testing using an
> ammeter. Do I understand correctly that the only problem with the "old"
> circuit was additional battery drain? The "old" circuit is as reliable
> otherwise as the new one? You indicate you've had no other problem with
> yours. If you don't remove the batteries or tape over the cover, how long
> would a set of new batteries last with the higher drain?
>
> John
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kennedy <rkm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: olympus-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <olympus-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Date: Sunday, February 08, 1998 11:02 AM
> Subject: Re: [OM] OM4 Question
>
> >In article , John Austin <johnaustin@xxxxxxxxxxxx> writes
> >>Hi all,
> >>
> >>I'm considering the purchase of a used OM4. Since the plain OM4 is usually
> >>several hundred cheaper than the OM4Ti, I'm going to go that way. I don't
> >>need the extra strength of the titanium, and can do without the F280 flash
> >>sync. My question concerns the reliability of the original OM4. I
> understand
> >>that if electronic problems occur and a new design circuit board is
> >>required, the cost of repair would be more than the camera is worth. How
> can
> >>I tell if a used OM4 I'm considering has already had the new circuit
> >>installed?
> >
> >If your dealer is particularly helpful, he might let you measure the
> >drain on the battery with a digital ammeter once it has powered down.
> >If it is the original circuit it is likely to be of the order of 10A or
> >so - it should be much less than 1A with the new circuit. When you
> >first make the circuit with the meter the OM-4 will be fully powered of
> >course, with a drain of several hundred A, so you need to wait for it
> >to power down.
> >
> >>Is this something to be concerned about?
> >Depends - I have an OM-4 with the original circuit in it and when it
> >gets stored away for more than a couple of days I just swap the motor-
> >drive cap with the battery cap. Some time ago I stuck some insulating
> >tape ofer the inside of motor-drive cap, so swapping these caps cuts the
> >battery drain to zero.
> >
> >I also do the same thing with my OM-4Ti, although it isn't strictly
> >necessary - its just avoids confusion between the two.
> >
> >> What should I be looking
> >>for when checking out used bodies? Thanks in advance for all help.
> >
> >Apart form the usual signs of abuse, check the foam seals around the
> >back for signs of rot.
> >
> >Also check the camera working with a lens fitted and make sure the spot
> >meter works - some cameras have been fitted to non-zuiko optics (Vivitar
> >were a culprit) which were built before the OM-4 came out and the
> >mounting screws sheared the top off of the spot reset switch on the lens
> >flange, which prevented spot metering from ever working again! Most
> >independant lens manufacturers switched to the 3-screw lens mount after
> >this debacle - but be careful if you intend to use older independent
> >lenses. If the screw heads on the lens flange would wipe over the
> >switch on the body while fitting the lens DO NOT EVEN THINK ABOUT
> >FITTING THAT LENS TO THE CAMERA BODY. Generally, 3 screws on the lens
> >at 120 is good, 4 screws on the lens at 90 is bad, but check every
> >lens before you attempt to fit them for the first time.
> >--
> >Kennedy
> >Yes, Socrates himself is particularly missed;
> >A lovely little thinker, but a bugger when he's pissed.
> >Python Philosophers (replace 'nospam' with 'kennedym' when
> replying)
> >
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