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Re: [OM] Blue in Gold

Subject: Re: [OM] Blue in Gold
From: Don Holbrook <donholbrook@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2017 14:40:15 -0400 (EDT)
Thank you very much for taking the time to write this.  Took 6 shots yesterday, 
and can see where subject depth and background bokeh will take some 
experimentation.  23 &1 work pretty good!  I knew 4/3 lenses would not stack, 
but not that they won't bracket either.  Bummer........so I ordered another 
lens and camera.  Thanks again.


> 
>     On April 22, 2017 at 7:07 PM Moose <olymoose@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> 
>     On 4/22/2017 8:44 AM, Don Holbrook wrote:
> 
>         > > 
> >         Beautiful photos!
> > 
> >     > 
>     Thanks!
> 
>         > > 
> >         Re the discussions on focus bracketing......any advice on choosing 
> > # of shots and spacing vs subject?
> > 
> >     > 
>     Yup. The camera is doing some thinking for you, so it may be necessary to 
> out think it on occasion. I believe the
>     following to be correct. In any case, acting on them works:
> 
>     The camera uses focal length, aperture and it's own DoF table to 
> determine the distance between focal planes of
>     exposures. You can further adjust this, without any certain precision, 
> with "Set Focus Differential".
> 
>     My experience (and that of Ctein) is that any setting higher than one 
> invites waves of varying softness with distance
>     that I really don't like. I suppose such a setting might be fine for web 
> size or small prints.
> 
>     With Focus Differential set to one, the depth of the stack - the area 
> that will be in focus in the stacked/merged image
> 
>         * will vary with f-stop; smaller aperture = greater DoF = more 
> spacing between slices = "deeper" stack. F5.6 is the best
>           IQ stop for most of the lenses.
> 
>     My experience is with the E-M5 II, so part of my 'advice' is based on it. 
> Its buffer will allow about 12-13 shots in a
>     second or so at higher shutter speeds. Go beyond that, and time between 
> exposures becomes dramatically longer, because
>     the buffer is full. I have a mixed bag of cards. I see that one body has 
> a UHS 1 and the other a UHS 3 card, so this
>     performance is probably somewhat different between them, but I've not 
> measured it. (The E-M1 and 5 II bodies don't
>     support the increased speed of UHS 3; I'm assuming the '3' cards perform 
> in them at '2' rates.)
> 
>     Reviews of the E-M1 II comment on the huge buffer, so it would seem any 
> setting up to 100+ slices would be speedy on it.
> 
>     On my E-M5 IIs, I have MySets on Fn1 and Fn2, one for 12 slices, the 
> other for 23*. 12 is always quick in decent light
>     (12 1/20 sec. exposures take longer than 12 1/1000 exposures.) I usually 
> go for f8-f10, for a deeper stack. The vast
>     majority of my stacks are shot hand held, and probably a majority of 
> those in conditions where the subjects may move, in
>     addition to my movements, so exposures after the buffer fills can be 
> problematic. When on a tripod, none of this much
>     matters; set a deep stack and wait a few seconds longer.
> 
>     23 catches the full depth of more things. But the deepest flower on 
> Columbine in Blue II is softer than it could have
>     been, with a deeper stack. Columbine in Blue IV didn't even need a full 
> 12.
> 
>     Other than the buffer problem, 'over' shooting is not a problem. Look at 
> them in a browser and throw away any that go
>     beyond the deepest needed for the subject. I have had some problems with 
> catching the closest bit in focus. I now use
>     for tripod shots, and focus slightly past-closer than even magnified MF 
> shows. Hand held, I half-press, then move/lean
>     back slightly.
> 
>     The alignment process in PS deals quite well with the camera movement 
> between frames that my hand holding introduces. As
>     with any focus stacking, movement of parts of the subject can cause 
> ghosting, often fairly easy to fix by hand, but time
>     consuming.
> 
>     Movement between subject and background make it fail. In a stack of a 
> poppy moving in a breeze, PS chose to use the soil
>     background as the subject to align, so the flower was all over the place. 
> Sure, I was pushing the limits, how else am I
>     gonna learn what I can get away with.
> 
>     This may be more than I really know. ;-) I hope it helps. Actually, 
> thanks for asking; I think writing it all down has
>     clarified my own thinking.
> 
>     In Deep Moose
> 
>         * No, I don't know why 23, instead of 24 or even 25, it's just what I 
> did. :-) I do know that I found 17-18 too often
>           insufficient.
> 
>     >
> 
>         > > 
> >             > > > 
> > >             On April 21, 2017 at 4:42 AM Moose <olymoose@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> > > 
> > >             In the process of beating back the rose that was falling over 
> > > everything, on stem of the Columbine I posted an image of
> > >             a few days ago was broken off. So, it came inside - And - 
> > > it's the time of year when late afternoon sun blasts straight
> > >             in where we put flowers.
> > > 
> > >             The whole thing, from bud to gone by. 
> > > <http://zone-10.com/tope2/main.php?g2_itemId=21825>
> > > 
> > >             Full flower. 
> > > <http://zone-10.com/tope2/main.php?g2_itemId=21829>
> > > 
> > >             Bye-Bye <http://zone-10.com/tope2/main.php?g2_itemId=21827>
> > > 
> > >             All with PLeica 12-60 and Nikon 5T
> > > 
> > >             Golden Light Moose
> > > 
> > >             --
> > > 
> > >             What if the Hokey Pokey *IS* what it's all about?
> > >             --
> > > 
> > >             
> > > _________________________________________________________________
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> > >             Themed Olympus Photo Exhibition: http://www.tope.nl/
> > > 
> > >         > > 
> >     > 
>     --
> 
>     What if the Hokey Pokey *IS* what it's all about?
>     --
> 
>     _________________________________________________________________
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> 
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