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Re: [OM] RC papers and recovering photos from flood damage

Subject: Re: [OM] RC papers and recovering photos from flood damage
From: "Bill Pearce" <billcpearce@xxxxxxx>
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 19:22:13 -0500
RC paper for color preceded B&W by at least 5 years. It was an urgent thing 
for color, as it made life much easier for mass production, and made the 
introduction of smaller, roller transport machines feasible. I remember 
working in a commercial studio in the mid seventies, and most all we printed 
in B&W was on fibre, and the color was all RC. Thanks to that experience, 
there's nothing in B&W that pleases me more than a ferrotyped print.

Bill Pearce

-----Original Message----- 
From: Chuck Norcutt
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2012 6:38 PM
To: Olympus Camera Discussion
Subject: Re: [OM] RC papers and recovering photos from flood damage

Thanks.  Makes perfect sense.  I didn't realize that RC papers went back
to 1968.  I'd have guessed a decade later.

Chuck Norcutt


On 4/23/2012 6:44 PM, Paul Laughlin wrote:
> I found this.  Might help.
>
> *Identifying and judging the age of chromogenic prints *
> As already noted, when in doubt a color photo is probably chromogenenic.
> Chromogenic images often fade and discolor with age, sometimes gaining a
> magenta tone. Vintage examples are on fiber based paper. This means that
> the back of the photo has a papery, fibery feel, as opposed to the
> plasticy feel of recent color photos you own. The front (where the image
> is) of these vintage chromogenic photos are usually glossy. This fibery
> back with glossy front is unique in color photos to the chromogenic 
> photos.
>
> In 1968 Kodak introduced resin coated paper for color photos. Resin
> coated paper has that glossy, plasticy feel on back. This means that if
> a photo with a 1950s image (James Dean, Korean War) is on resin coated
> paper, it is not vintage. Many modern reprints of both black&  white and
> color photos are identified as the paper is resin-coated. A quick and
> simple ways to identify many reprints.
>
> It is from:
> *Photograph Identification Guide
> *by David Rudd Cycleback
>
> Hope it helps.
>
> Will try to check with "Operation Photo Rescue" and see what they say.
> Right now I am a bit tired,  Just returned from buying a replacement
> vehicle, as we had a transmission failure Saturday and it would cost
> more to repair than the vehicle is worth. VBG  And that transmission had
> less than 10,000 miles on an AMCO rebuild.  Out of warranty based on time.
>
> Paul in Portland OR
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> On 4/23/2012 1:45 PM, Chuck Norcutt wrote:
>>
>> Becci said her experience in Japan had shown that many prints that are
>> stuck together can be easily separated if they're first frozen.  She
>> says ice crystals form in between the prints and push them apart.  But,
>> she continued, there is one big cavaet... don't do that with RC papers.
>>     If you do, instead of pushing the prints apart, the ice crystals will
>> push the emulsion of the RC print right off the paper and thus totally
>> destroy it.  That's apparently a side effect of the paper's base being
>> unable to absorb water.  That may be a clue to the answer to my question
>> which is:  Does anyone know how to definitively identify an RC print?
>> Finally, maybe it doesn't matter if you're presented with a thick stack
>> of different kinds of prints all stuck together.  I wish I'd thought to
>> ask her at the time.
>>
>
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