You don't say what shutter speed was being used. If you're shooting at
300mm on a 4/3 camera then, in 35mm terms, with respect to image shake
and movement, you're shooting at 600mm. Adapting the old rule of thumb
for slowest shutter speed equal to to the inverse of the focal length
you should be shooting not slower than 1/600... or 1/640 as likely the
closest possible setting.
If you assume that the IS is worth 2 stops that would allow shutter
speed down to 1/160. But if you want really sharp photos you'll
probably have to stay faster than that or get on a monopod.
I'm not sure why you're shooting in aperture priority mode unless you're
close enough to be having DOF problems. If in an automatic mode I think
I would be shooting in shutter priority to guarantee a fast enough
shutter speed but also doing an occasional check on the aperture to make
sure it's acceptable. But I would only do that if in rapidly changing
light. Looking at the other shot you have there it looks like you were
out in fairly constant sunshine.
<http://www.interisland.net/watershed/mike/WalkDogs/562.jpg>
If that's the case I'd be shooting in manual to try and control both
aperture and shutter speed to best effect. Even if it's very early
morning or very late afternoon and the light is changing rapidly you
shouldn't have to alter exposure from shot to shot.
Chuck Norcutt
Mike wrote:
> ...and trying out the 300/4.5 on the E510 with the adapter I just
> received in the mail today from jinfinance.
>
> <http://www.interisland.net/watershed/mike/WalkDogs/570.jpg>
>
> Hand held so there were many too shakey to use. I'd like to use a
> monopod with the IS if that is possible. I set the camera to MF and used
> aperature priority which seemed to be OK. I'm open to suggestions. What
> settings do you use with the MF lenses?
>
> Mike
>
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