Yes, the flash and camera settings do make a difference.
For auto mode on the flash:
1. Set the camera in manual mode. Set the ISO to whatever you want.
The aperture will be set later. For the moment, set the shutter speed
to the maximum sync speed for the E-500 which is 1/180 second. We may
change this later.
2. Set the calulator panel to the auto/manual mode side.
3. Set the ASA slider to the same ISO setting as the camera.
4. Drop down to the aperture scale and note that you now have three
apertures to choose from. Using ASA 100 you'll have f/4, f/5.6 and f/8
as options. Choose the one you want and set this aperture on both the
flash's aperture slider *and* the camera.
Note: One of the things you're doing at this stage is restricting the
camera's aperture. If you were to choose f/2.8 at this stage the
exposure might be so fast that the flash's electronics might not be able
to respond fast enough to quench the auto exposure. That's why you
can't open up more than f/4 as ASA 100.
5. Take the shot and review the image and the histogram. If it's OK
you're all done. If it's over or underexposed you can adjust the
exposure by lying to the flash about the ASA setting and moving the ASA
slider up or down a bit. Alternatively you can tweak the aperture on
the camera. Watch out that your teaking doesn't open the lens too far
though. As above, the flash might not be able to respond fast enough to
cut the flash duration.
6. Optionally, you can experiment with "dragging the shutter". Try
gradually slowing the shutter down to as low as 1/4 second or even more.
The flash exposure will freeze the subjects and the flash exposure
will be unaffected by the change in shutter speed. However, the ambient
light will start to record more and more as the shutter speed gets
longer and longer. At some point you may start picking up subject
motion blur superimposed over the frozen image. Balance that with
picking up enough background ambient light to brighten the room and
avoid the "this was shot in a cave look".
To shoot in manual mode set the camera as before, set the flash ASA
level (eg; 100) and then move the mode slider to either one of the
manual power positions (full power, guide number = 104 feet or 1/4
power, guide number = 52 feet). Guesstimate the distance to the
subject, read the distance on the red scale (say 20 ft at full power)
and see that this translates into f/5.6 plus a little bit.
Again, do the chimping thing. The rating of the flash is a bit
optimistic and the actual power output is heavily dependent on the
battery voltage. You will never get the rating using rechargeable
batteries at 1.2 volts. On the other hand, your fresh alkaline
batteries delivering 1.55 volts will soon be delivering less than 1.2
volts as the flash eats them for lunch.
Chuck Norcutt
ALI wrote:
> Does the setting really make a difference (ie., ISO, aperture, etc)
> when using a
> digital camera instead of an OM?
>
> Which setting do you suggest for the T-32 when being used with the
> E-500 (which
> is set in Manual mode)?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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