You hit the nail right on the head!
I am so glad there are people around that actually KNOW stuff. Thanks!
My releay cord apparently is the 'new' (and not-so-improved) type: no
locate pin at all and no trace of one ever being there. The bracket is still
pretty
straight, but the tab has nicely rounded cornes.... Excellent diagnosis!
Any hints for a cure?
Regarding the other problem: the brass plate indeed was only held by two
screws! The guy I bought the drive from had replaced the batteries, and
apparently lost a screw. He clearly was more of an Electronic engineer
than a Mechanical one. I hope for his sake.
I had added a third one (I hadn't thought I'd ever recycle Practica screws!).
The plastic washer is still in place, I'll take it out someday.
Case closed.
Thanks a lot!
Bart <bows gracefully>
Citeren PhotoSphere Olympus Camera Service <olyfix@xxxxxxxxxx>:
>
> As I recall, there are two types of relay cord (of course!). These
> observations relate to the older original style, but may be applicable to
> the later version. Parts for the original were supplied (MMS-C1 and
> MMS-C2), but I don't recall ever seeing parts pages for the later type.
> Parts pages for the original may be posted on Mark Dapoz's site.
>
> There should be a tab on the rear of the relay cord that fits into a notch
> on the back of the MD unit. I would suspect that either the tab on the
> relay is rounded and worn, the bracket is cracked or "spread" (the two
> springs on the front edge that hold it in place on the MD put pressure on
> the plastic frame, making it bend), or the notch in the rear of the MD
> casting has been worn laterally.
>
> Also, on the contact plate of the end of the relay cord that attaches to
> the
> MD, the parts page shows there should be a pin in front of the six
> contacts.
> That pin fits into a hole in front of the six pins on the bottom of the
> MD.
> I would assume that that pin has been sheared off as well.
>
> > When the relay cord is mounted on the drive, there is quite a lot of
> > lateral backlash. I.e. the connector can move sideways for about 5mm
> > (0.2" for all you imperialists out there). If I slide it to the outmost
> position
> > in the direction of the lens, the connectors do not make contact
> > anymore! Is this normal? Is there a fix? The cord snaps pretty firmly i
> > nto place otherwise and makes good electrical contact (after sandpaper
> > treatment).
> >
>
> CE132900 should be held in place with three screws. If they were not
> tightened evenly or if any are missing, the brass plate may have tilted,
> causing a short against the switch.
>
>
> > When switching to either 'single' or 'continue', the camera started
> > *exposing* immediately in continueous mode, the moment the
> > switch dropped in place, irregardless of the trigger button! When the
> > switch was only turned (not dropped) it acted as it should. This seemed
> > to be caused by the brass ring (CE132900 RS PLATE) acting as a
> > conductor between the drive casing (through the switch body) and the
> > actual switch's contact ring (CE015600 RS CONTACT through
> > CE015300 RS NUT). I could solve this by simply putting an insulating
> > washer between the brass ring ring and the nut inside the switch. Is
> this
> > a common problem? Or does this indicate a short cirquit somewhere
> > else in the battery pack or in the drive?
> >
> > Thanks for any help!
> >
> > Regards,
> > Bart
> >
>
--
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