At 3:32 AM +0100 1/3/05, Listar wrote:
>From: "Wayne Culberson" <waynecul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: [OM] Re: Vivitar 550FD M/P/O discussion
>Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2005 20:57:05 -0400
>
>
>
>From: "Joe Gwinn" <joegwinn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>> A few things occur to me.
>>
>> 1. Voltage measurements at
>> http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html seem to vary all over
>> the place, which I suspect is due to the various kinds of voltmeters
> > people have.
>
>I suspect mine is not very accurate, and as well I was reading it wrong on a
>couple of the measurements with the T series flashes.
Little digital multimeters from even the major makers are not very
expensive. Perhaps it's time to buy a Fluke or EXTECH DMM. (By the
way, I would not buy anything from BK Precision. Nothing I ever
bought from them proved satisfactory, and was replaced within the
year. A dead loss.)
I measure 11.3 volts on a T Power Control, with the trigger contact
positive and the shoe negative.
> > 3. I doubt that shorting the TTL pins on Olympus (or anyone else's)
>> flashes will cause any damage, as a flash that wouldn't work (let
>> alone would be damaged) in a plain old one-contact metal hotshoe
>> would be laughed out of the market. That said, if Olympus went to
>> the trouble of mechanically retracting the extra pins, it may be that
>> shorting those pins will interfere with flash operation.
>
>You are likely right here. Its too bad Vivitar didn't make the extra pins to
>retract as well though.
I suspect that the necessary electronics are cheaper and more
reliable than the mechanics would be. And, the electronics are
needed anyway, so the flash doesn't come back on warrantee if the
mechanics aren't quite perfect.
> > 4. It's probably OK to parallel flashes that have the same
>> low-voltage polarity (plus or minus) on their synch terminals, even
>> if the voltages are not exactly the same, so long as the voltages are
>> all no more than 10 or 15 volts. If the polarities are opposite, the
>> units will likely keep each other from working, but probably won't
>> hurt each other. But, no manufacturer will guarantee this, because
>> they cannot test all combinations, and are responsible only for their
>> own products.
>
>So I should be able to parallel the T series and the 550FD's together then.
If the voltages all pass muster, it's worth a try.
>Okay, now I might need to search the auction site for some more duo-sync
>connecting cords. I wish there was some way to just use phone cords or
>something cheap like that to connect everything. The Vivitars don't have the
>flash plugs of course, just the hot shoe connection, so the Olympus cords
>will only work with the t32.
One can buy various flash synch cords for about nothing at used
camera sales. Then, cut them up and start soldering. Insulate the
joints using heat-shrink tubing. One can solve mismatched polarities
with a soldering iron. And, phone cords are perfectly suitable, if
not too long (too high a resistance, though I've never found the
limit). So is bell wire and zipcord.
Joe
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