Spent years teaching High School kids to use Patersons (not my
choice) - eventually found the trick. They suggest cutting the
corners off the lead - I leave the tongue out and actually round off
the end and cut a very thin 1mm taper on the tip for about 2-3mm (not
too much or it will jump the rails). I found that having done that I
could feed a 24exp film in just by pushing it so long as the reel is
perfectly dry, without the need for the steel balls. I became a
Paterson convert.
Having spent many frustrating sessions watching students hack bags
from the inside with scissors, jam and bend film, attempt to use
reels left damp from a previous class and expect me to retrieve the
disaster without damage, this came as a revelation. (You want to try
and control a class with your hands locked in a dark bag - especially
when you are an 'eyes-closed' loader?)
I trained them to leave the tongue out when rewinding, trim it
properly and lock the tongue into the reel before getting into the
bag, leaving the cassette hanging on the reel. They can then feed
directly from the cassette in the darkbag (never had a scratching
problem).
AndrewF
>Paterson reels came in two flavours (and maybe still do). The reels
>delivered with the tanks were "autoload" with a couple of ball-bearings at
>the start of each spiral, allowing the film to be loaded from the outside of
>the spiral, and ratcheted in with a to-and-for motion of each face of the
>spiral. The alternative centre load spirals load in the same way as a
>stainless steel spiral - clip the end of the film to the cnetral core, then
>bow the film across its wideth as you wind the spiral. As Earl says, the
>ratchet style is an acquired taste. And it is no use if you are reloading
>wet reversal film after giving it the post-first-development re-exposure,
>because the water stops the ball-bearings doing their job. (OK, so E-6 uses
>chemical 're-exposure', but I am talking of the old days here!).
>
>I recommend the alternative Paterson non-autoload style. Or stainless
>steel.
>
>Piers
>
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