I'll take a stab at this.
Firstly, I think you will have to use manual flash - especially if the
background must be dark.
For the subject the strong side lighting, I would set-up the T-32 with
required cords, etc.
For the 50 0.000000ill, I assume that this is half-way between the dark shadows
(black?) and the strong highlights (white?) where one could assume about 2.5
stops up or down from the selected area. The instructor may mean a 1:2
lighting ratio that puts the fill -1 stop from the lit area. In this
situation, I would place the T32 at the appropriate distance for an f16
reading, then would move the camera to the correct distance to get f11.
For #3, I would do the same as above, but place the camera so that the
readings are the same.
For #4, you should be able to do this with all of them as long as the
background meters 3 stops darker than the highest sync speed at the given
aperture.
Manual GN is always best. When shooting indoors the other day, I found that
AUTO would try to bring up too much of the background and would burn out the
subject. Instead of bracketing with the exp. comp., I just used the GN.
Often times, I will set the f-stop based on a distance, then will move back
and forth to get accurate focus. I did this yesterday at the botanic
gardens when trying to photograph some flowers on a cocoa tree. I had a T20
mounted and figured that with 100 speed film I would need to be 3ft for an
f22 exposure. I set all of that on the camera in manual, then moved to get
exactly 3ft from the subject. You can also influence the background with
your shutter speed. If I had a tri-pod, I could have set the background -1
stop from the subject, but that would have been over 1 second.
I hope this helps. If you have any questions, you can e-mail me off-list.
Bob Gries
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