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[OM] Use of acid flux in soldering - a heresy

Subject: [OM] Use of acid flux in soldering - a heresy
From: Joe Gwinn <joegwinn@xxxxxxxxx>
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 13:01:32 -0400
At 7:53 PM +0000 5/17/02, olympus-digest wrote:
>Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 20:08:02 -0400
>From: "Jim L'Hommedieu" <lamadoo@xxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Re: [OM] Light Meter Problem
>
><Amazed>  They used "radiator" flux within a camera?  </Amazed>
>
>- ----- Original Message -----
>From: "John Hermanson" <omtech@xxxxxxxxx>
> > Could be a bad meter ground strap or corroded battery wire.  Olympus
> > mistakenly used acid soldering flux on the battery wire during some of the
> > production, which practically guaranteed meter problems (eventually. )

I assume that they had a batch of components with hard-to-solder connections.  
This can happen if the components have been stored too long.  Many years ago, I 
had a batch of Nixie tubes (neon numerical display tubes) whose kovar leads 
could not be soldered with rosin flux (used in radio solder).  The solution was 
to dunk the leads in battery acid (sulphuric acid, 20trength) to clean the 
oxide off, wash in very hot water to get the acid off, dry with a towel, and 
then solder the tubes into the circuit.  Worked great, no corrosion.  The 
drying step was optional, by the way.

To this day, I prepare Keystone battery holders for use by using tinner's flux 
to solder the terminal rivet to the connection tab.  One applies the tinners 
flux using a toothpick, just a little is wicked into the space between rivet 
and tab.  Then, proceed with soldering iron and radio solder.  When done, wash 
the battery holder with very hot water.  Later, install the battery holder in 
the circuit.  If this step is omitted, the battery holders develop intermittant 
connections as the atmosphere causes corrosion betweem rivet and tab.

Tinners flux is a yellow fluid consisting of hydrochloric acid plus zinc 
chloride dissolved in water, and is available in little bottles at hardware 
stores and Sears.  Tinners flux is used to soft-solder ordinary steel, and will 
work on clean stainless steel as well.

The moral in this heresy is that if you are going to use acid flux, use the 
real stuff (very little is needed) to tin the part, wash the residue off with 
hot water, and then solder the wire in with radio solder.  Acid-core solder 
isn't that good, and the residue is almost impossible to remove.  Even with the 
liquid acid flux, don't use it inside an electronic assembly, as the fumes will 
get everywhere.  Do the tinning elsewhere, clean up as best you can, install 
the part, and then attach the wires with radio solder.

Joe Gwinn


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