Dear Bill (Barber),
<< The pin which holds the little rewind crank in place has worked its way
out
on one side. >>
I (Dave Bellamy) have exactly the same problem and posted it in digest #
2483. Thanks to the list, I got some advice, but I haven't touched the crank
yet! As you have noticed, there is tno screw in the middle of the crank on
the OM-2SP as there is on my OM-4Ti and OM-1N. Tio me, the OM-2S(P) crank is
maybe a little 'cheapo' by comparison, as is the ASA dial too, I think.
There were some helpful replies to my post Bill, a week or two ago. If I can
find them, I will send them to you - ... - (hours later!:) ... I have now
quoted some on the bottom of this message! Or try an archive search on the
list's webpage.
Dave Bellamy.
http://members.aol.com/synthchap/
################
[OM] #2483: My question was:
<<
I like it [the OM-2SP] already. It's like 'almost' an OM-4(Ti), but it has
that more
OM-1 OM-2 look with the pointier pentaprism. In the end I couldn't
resist it at 110 pounds Sterling! 12-month guarantee too. Ironic,
after the store sent me completely the wrong camera to start with!
[I asked for an OM-2!]
I also have a (smaller) rewind crank problem on this OM-2SP - the
little hinge on the rewind crank handle is broken on one side, and the
handle is therefore a little bit loose (but will rewind OK - I will have to
do it carefully!).
>>
Answers!:
(1.)
[OM] #2483
Strange. I had the *exact* same problem with my 2SP. I was just about
to get it fixed when the camera was stolen, so I can't tell you what to do.
Maybe it's one of all the 2SP maladies. Otherwise an excellent camera.
Hope you can get it fixed (John H?)
Henrik
(2.)
OM #2483:
<< Dave:
I fixed this on my OM-1. I believe that the OM-2SP should be the same.
First, remove the rewind knob from the camera. (Instructions from the OM
Repair FAQ:)
1. Remove the rewind knob:
This was actually a little tricky, as I did not know how it was
supposed to come off. The book just said unscrew it. It
took a little time but I finally worked out that the whole knob
just unscrews from the shaft, exactly what the book said....
You need some sort of implement to stop the shaft turning while
you unscrew it. Don't use pliers as the rewind forks bend
very easily. I ended up cutting a chop stick to fit as close
as possible to the shaft, and avoided placing much pressure on
the forks. There is a small screw in the center of the rewind
knob. John H mentioned that this should not be touched.
2. Once you the rewind knob off, look at the underside of the knob.
You will need to remove a spacer/washer. The rewind lever is held in
place by a small length of wire. You should be able to cut a length
from an ordinary #1 paper clip (honest!) and thread it through the
rewind lever. Use a small screwdriver to carefully push the wire into
the groove in the body of the rewind knob. The rewind lever pivots on
wire, there isn't really a hinge.
3. Replace the spacer/washer, and re-assemble the rewind knob on the
shaft.
4. Again, this was the repair for an OM-1. I assume that the OM-2SP
has a similar arrangement. Your mileage may vary, etc.
Good luck!
Bill Stanke
>>
3.
[OM] #2484
<<
Grip the flat sides of the end of the rewind shaft from the outside with
needlenose pliars, down where the fork is. In other words, turn the
shaft so you can see between the legs of the fork -- now turn it 90
degrees -- see how the legs of the fork are flat when viewed from the
side? Put your pliars on the _flats_ of the fork. DON'T put anything
_between_ the legs of the fork -- if you spread the fork, it will stick
in the collar when you pull it up to open the back.
Next, if you don't want to bother with a paperclip (which I've done 1000
times!), you can also try just putting a slight bend in the pin that's
there. Remove the knob and spring, slide the lever into the knob so you
can get to the pin, slide the pin half-way out of it's hole and give it
a little bend with your pliars. Now press the pin back into the lever
- -- the bend will keep it centered!
Incidentally, the plate that goes under the rewind knob should be
oriented so that the "spring"-part preses _up_, against the rewind
lever, and the squared-off plate is _down_.
Bill Stanke wrote:
>
> Dave:
>
> I fixed this on my OM-1. I believe that the OM-2SP should be the same.
> First, remove the rewind knob from the camera. (Instructions from the OM
> Repair FAQ:)
>
> 1. Remove the rewind knob: ... etc. etc. etc.
> 2. Once you the rewind knob off, ....
> 3. Replace the spacer/washer, ....>
> 4. Again, this was the repair for an OM-1. I assume that the OM-2SP
> has a similar arrangement. Your mileage may vary, etc.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Bill Stanke
4.
[OM] #2485
<< A safer method which I use is to use an old 35mm film spool (the black
plastic centre part of a 35mm film cartridge). If you don't have one
handy, go down to your local photo finisher, they'll probably have hundreds.
Put the spool in the camera and then insert a slot screwdriver into the
slot in the spool where the film goes. Hold the screwdriver as you unscrew
the rewind knob. Presto, the rewind knob comes off and the forks aren't at
risk of being bent and/or scratched.
-mark >>
5.
E-mailed to me directly:
<< The pin used to hold the handle in is a little short. replace with a
slightly longer piece of paper clip.
John Hermanson >>
6.
OM #2505 Your message:
<<
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 22:40:25 EDT
From: NSURIT@xxxxxxx
Subject: [OM] Rewind knob on OM 2S, how to adjust pin.
- --part1_f9.c2389ea.28713919_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
The pin which holds the little rerwind crank in place has worked its way out
on one side. I'm sure it won't be long until it works itself out on the
other side. All the other models I have access to, have a screw in the top
of the knob that appears to let you remove the knob and then have access to
the pin. On the OM 2S is there is no screw to remove (or at least it is not
visible). This is weird because there is a screw on the 1, 2, 2n, 3 & 4. Is
this an easy fix and does someone know how to tell me to fix it? Bill Barber
>>
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