jim:
if the artificial lighting on the interior illuminates the art correctly,
then i would shoot at dusk to reduce the amount of light coming in through
the window. for this you will have to filter for the tungsten lights
(usually an 80C will work tungsten film) which will give a nice effect for
the area out doors. you must also be careful about reflections if artwork
has glass - polarizers will cut-off light at 30 degrees to the art.
if you are set on buying extra flash units, then you are correct that it
would take an eternity to work out all the hotspots. if you want to spend a
little $, you could always rent the lighting equip. from a local store.
also be aware that if you bounce off the ceiling for a vertical shot, the
area on the bottom will not have to proper exposure since the light will not
reach it with the same intensity of the top - hence the benefit of having
the flash mounted parallel to the frame.
as for the coiled cord, it is possible to purchase cords w/ a straight run
of about 15cm before the coiling begins, in which case it will not interfere
w/ the lens or camera.
are you anywhere near the chicago area?
gries
From: "Jim L'Hommedieu" <jlamadoo@xxxxxxxx>
Reply-To: olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: "Olympus List" <olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [OM] T-32 & T-20 questions
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 16:00:25 -0500
Okay. If I want to make a vertical portrait indoor, using a T-32, bounced
off the ceiling, on an OM-PC, how do I proceed? (I need to get the T-32 off
the shoe so I can turn the camera and point the flash head up, while still
retaining the TTL coupling.) Since, the PC will do TTL flash, what are the
cord/grip options? Is there a web site that explains what pieces work for
TTL flash? I want to know everything about all of my hardware options.
Also, for the OM-2, is there a long, non-coiled cord available that screws
into the prism's flash socket? (I'm trying to avoid the OM-2's PC socket.)
Now a question about lighting.
I'm trying to get nice even light to capture architectural photos of the
inside of my brother's very cool house before he sells. The available
window light is way too contrasty, even using 100 speed Kodak color neg
film. I have a small wink light, and T-20 and a T-32. I suspect that a
flash meter is necessary for best results. Is it even worth trying to
scatter the strobes around the room, buy slaves and stands and fire all
these non-pro flashes? I'm sure the pros use medium format cameras, flash
meters, tons of experience, and test exposures on Polaroid backs. None of
these tools are available / affordable to me. Thoughts?
Won't I get overlapping flash patterns, resulting in hot spots? Is it worth
pursuing?
Thanks,
Jim
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