I use Mill Rose soldering paste on the battery contacts. All old solder
must be filed off first, then filed and cleaned with alcohol. Apply paste,
heat @ 750 degrees, TRY to solder. Clean again, reapply paste, reheat &
apply solder. I usually get a small blob of solder to hold on the second
attempt.
John Hermanson
___________________________________
Camtech, Olympus Service since 1977.
21 South Ln. Huntington NY 11743-4714
631-424-2121 http://www.zuiko.com
Free Olympus Manuals: 1-800-221-3000
___________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: Chuck Norcutt <norcutt@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: Olympus mail list <olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2000 9:00 PM
Subject: RE: [OM] [OT] Need some simple (?) repair advice
| Thanks to all who responded on and off list to my plea for help in
| soldering to (apparently) stainless steel. I now have a plethora of
| options: acid or paste flux (actually, I've tried paste flux to no
| avail), silver solder, JB Weld, TinZinc, conducting glue, Liquid Solder
| and manufacturing a new piece. I think I'll try the TinZinc or silver
| solder first if I can find it.
|
| For Dirk's benefit: no, the spring contact itself was not oxidized but
| the solder(?) blob that I ground off was. Someone else mentioned that
| the wire probably needed to be replaced. Indeed, that's exactly what I
| was attempting to do. Basically, there was nothing left of the negative
| lead except insulation and copper oxide. The positive lead is perfectly
| clean.
|
| Also for Dirk's benefit, the reason that I'm working so hard to repair
| this poor old C35 is just to learn how to do it. I've already surprised
| myself in one way. The filter ring had a pretty nice dent in it and I
| figured that I'd never be able to hammer that thing out sufficiently
| round that I'd be able to unscrew the retaining ring for the name plate
| and CDS assembly. Well, I did it. Not a bad job if I do say so myself
| :-). Thanks to John H. who told me to use wooden tools many months
| ago. Small diameter hardwood dowels and a soft wood block work just
| fine.
|
| Even if I get it working again this camera will still be next to
| worthless. Maybe it will go on the block for parts. The meter seems to
| be fine.
|
| But, I won't touch my beloved OM's just yet. That reminds me that I
| have an OM-1 and an OM-2n that I need to send to John H. for some TLC
| before the prism foam eats the silver.
|
| Thanks again all,
| Chuck Norcutt
| Woburn, Massachusetts, USA
|
|
|
| >>
| >> I've come to the conclusion that I must be trying to solder
| >> to stainless
| >> steel. Perhaps that original wire had been spot welded in place.
| >> Anyhow, I can't seem to make this wire stick to its battery
| >> compartment. Anyone got any advice on how to fix this? I've
| >> thought of
| >> constructing a new contact from a piece of shim brass...
| >> something I can
| >> solder to, but maybe there's an easier way.
|
| If it was stainless steel, there wouldn't be any corrosion in the first
| place. Maybe some battery goo though. You certainly are trying hard to
| save this camera! If you can get hold of some springy copper sheet, you
| could make a new contact easily. Stiff brass would work also. The part
| of the contact that presses against the battery should be tinned to
| prevent corrosion of the brass or copper from interupting current flow.
| The tinned area will eventually oxidize also, but since it is so soft,
| merely rotating the battery against it while it is installed should
| clean it off enough to work fine.
|
| Be seeing you.
|
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