John Lind wrote:
> (5) Precision and quality of the filter ring to get the filter optics
> perpendicular to the lens axis, keep it that way under repeated use, and
> not cause excessive wear to the lens ring. IMO brass is best, aluminum
> runs second but can stick easily making removal difficult, and forget about
> plastic.
I agree, but could a brass filter damage a lens with plastic threads?
Q1: Does the current model 50 f/1.8 really have plastic
filter threads (shoddy), or is just the bezel plastic like
that on my 24 f/2.8?
BTW, Hoya's stated reason for using aluminium is that most
lenses have plastic barrels and the filter rather than the
lens should break on impact. It shows you who they think the
buyers are.
(6) In use, keeping a filter _clean_ is as important as the first five.
Hoya claim their most expensive SMCs have an easy-to-clean coating over
the front surface. Sounds useful for UV filters used on boats
etc.
Some more questions about polarizers:
Q2. Are the Hoya SMC circular polarizers an exception to Hoya's
aluminium policy? I bought some cheaper Hoya c-pols a couple
of years ago and they're brass.
Q3. Is it true that B+W polarizers have a yellow cast? And
that Heliopans aren't multicoated?
Q4. Do Hoya SMC or other 72mm circular polarizers foul the hood
on the Zuiko 300 f/4.5? There's not a lot of clearance there.
What about hood/vignetting problems on other 72mm Zuikos?
Q5. I believe some brands (Hoya, Tiffen) cheap out on the carry
case. The old fashioned path lab style is what I'd prefer.
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