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Re: Fw: [OM] Telescopic Extension Tubes

Subject: Re: Fw: [OM] Telescopic Extension Tubes
From: dkalmeijer@xxxxxxxx
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 14:23:22 +0100
Frank wrote:
>
> Do you take the T32 off the camera or leave it on the hotshoe?
> If you take it off the camera, what sort of bracket do you use?

I used the metal strip (don't know the right word for it: base-plate?) that
came with a Metz 60CT1 grip-type flash. On one side I attached it to the
tripod collar of the extension tube (or the bellows) and the other side I
attached to a T20 connector (and the T32). This way I could position the
flash just next to the lens. There are some special made brackets but they
usually are attached to the camera body. Attaching it to the tripod collar
is easier because you can rotate te collar to position your flash (for
portrait/lanscape framing). The problem with this setup is that the T32 is
quite heavy (for an Olympus item, that is) so there is a lot of force on
the tripod collar of the extension tube (and on the camera's lens mount).
The screw used to tighten the collar to the extension tube got worn out
after some time so my extension tube now has to share a tripod collar with
the 300/4.5. :-(

Getting the flash that close to your subject is OK for magnifications above
1:1 because it starts to work as a softbox, giving really soft
light/shadows. For magnifications under 1:1 I usually have an other flash
(T20) pointed from behind the subject. This way you avoid an overexposed
foregroud and an underexposed background (used that with the stag beetle
picture).

> What about ghosting?

Ghosting?

> Do you use ND filters or do your
> creepy-crawlies hold still enough?

I only use the standard T32 wide-filter (the opaque filter in the ND filter
set), again to get that softbox effect. I use the full manual setting of
the T32, blasting those creepy-crawlies away! But they don't seem to mind.
Most insects just go on with their business, giving me the opertunity to
take even several shots.

If I get my subjects in focus (about half the time) and framed well,
movement isn't a problem. The flash duration is short enough to freeze it
and the backgroud light levels aren't high enough to be a problem. I
sometimes have pictures where the insects move their antennae or legs fast
enough to become visible. This isn't a problem as long as the head and body
are OK, legs and antennae are out of focus most of the time so I don't mind
them being fuzzy.

Daan



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