I think the way your LCD reacts to the comp dial is normal. The LCD
behaviour can be a little flaky. For instance, on auto, the lcd bar is lit
next to "60" yet when you open the lens 1 stop, and the lcd lights up to
125 , but the lcd segment next to 125 is blinking. This blinking bar is
considered "lit" according to the service manual. So no service can be
done, the user has to learn to accept it. Compensating 1/3 of a stop
affects exposure that much but the value that goes to the LCD might be right
on the edge of shifting between 2 lcd segments.
There are several pages in every service manual that list behaviour in
that camera model which may be misinterpreted by the user as defects.
Maybe I should list these on my site.
John
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----- Original Message -----
From: Ross Waite <rmwaite@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: 'olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx' <olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, August 09, 1999 6:14 AM
Subject: RE: [OM] precision of metering-dial 2S, 4 Ti
> Hi Hans
>
> Couple of comments on your questions:
>
> > 1. The display of my 2 S does not reproduce alterations of every
1/3-stop
> > when using the plus-minus-dial; the first 1/3 sometimes none, the second
> > 1/3 stop gives some alteration of the dial, sometimes one, sometimes the
> > given two 1/3s at a time.
> > Is this a ?normal" abnormalty for this type?
>
> This also occurred to my OM-4 & 4Ti after having a CLA done on each.
Prior
> to that, as the compensation dial was adjusted, the result could be seen
on
> the LCD in the viewfinder. I also sent the cameras back to be checked,
but
> they came back just the same, with a note to the effect that the
> compensation was working normally. I then got radical and put some slide
> film (K'chrome 64) in the cameras and tested the compensation very
> carefully with some test shots, from normal exposure to plus & minus 2
> stops in 1/3 increments. On the slides from both cameras, the 1/3
> increments could all be clearly seen, proving that the compensation was
> working normally, even though the display did not appear to operate as
> expected.
>
> > 2. Spot or cw-mode - another but only technical aspect: My OM Ti
> > announces usually 1/3 stop lower in spot-mode than in CW-mode (in Auto
as
> > well as manual), of course metering an absolutely even lighted object
> > (wall f.e.).
>
> I have a similar problem which I am still trying to deal with. Both my
> OM-4 & 4Ti, display the exact same speed for the spot reading as for the
> average reading (given an absolutely evenly lit wall), but in practice,
the
> auto (averaging) mode overexposes compared with the spot or manual mode,
by
> around 1/2 to 2/3 of a stop. With a piece of film in the camera, this
> difference can easily be heard on the low speeds, eg when the display
> indicates 1/2 second, the shutter speed sounds closer to 1 second. I have
> tried lots of test photos of subjects where the whole scene is close to
18%
> grey, and each time the auto overexposes compared to the spot or manual
> mode, even though the display indicates the same speed is selected. (No
> change to aperture.) The problem is consistent irrespective of which lens
> or aperture is used.
>
> To get around it when using normal auto mode, I set the compensation dial
> to -1/3 or -2/3, depending on the situation. Problem then is that I often
> forget to switch off the compensation prior to using spot or manual. Very
> frustrating.
>
> The technicians around here say this is normal; - spot and average should
> be different. I don't agree as I didn't have this problem prior to the
> CLA. I have heard that the auto average mode is easy to adjust.
> Apparently, there are 2 potentiometers under the bottom plate of the
> mirror box. The rear-most one is supposedly the one for the auto mode
> shutter duration. (I think the front one is the adjustment for manual
> shutter speeds.) I have no problem with performing the adjustment as I am
> an trained in electronics and frequently perform adjustments via preset
> pots. The problem is getting to the pot in question. The bottom plate of
> the mirror box is glued into place. It appears to consist of 2 pieces, &
I
> am not sure how to remove it (or them) without causing damage to these
> parts. Even if I knew how to remove them, I am not sure what type of
> adhesive is required to refit them. If anyone can shed any light on this
it
> would be welcome.
>
> If I lived in the US, I would ship the cameras to John H. From past
> experience with repair technicians in my area, I am not inclined to trust
> them to fix this problem without inflicting some other problem.
>
> I find it frustrating that the potential metering excellence of these
> cameras cannot always be realised because it is so hard to find someone
who
> can calibrate then correctly.
>
> Regards
> Ross Waite
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