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Re: [OM] purchasing dilemna

Subject: Re: [OM] purchasing dilemna
From: "George M. Anderson" <george@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Thu, 01 Jul 1999 17:47:20 -0700
Hi.  I think it's an easy choice: **IS-3**

Reliable?  I had an IS-1 for 2 years and then bought an IS-3, used and
have had it for close to 3 years. No problem with either one.

Money? I think you can get a brand new IS-3 for $399.00, altho it might
be more, used ones around 300 give or take.

Separate parts? None. Dual-tube flash built in, winder built in. 35-180
ED zoom built in. And its a great lens (see Pop Photo test july 1993) 

Manual focus?  Yes.  The IS-3 is normally full auto-focus (no Nikon F-5,
but it is quite fast and accurate) and the zoom lens is powered too, so
you can change focal lengths at touch of zoom button.  2 speeds of
zoom.  And it works quite well, much better and more precise than power
zooms on P&Ss.  Now, if for some reason you want to focus manually, the
zoom buttons double as manual focus.  So you must zoom to focal length
first, then switch to manual focus. Then adjust focus with zoom
buttons.  Handy way to set up portraits etc where you want same focus
point for a series of shots and don't wanna have to worry about the AF
rectangle. (You can easily get in these shots with the IR remote, $20 or
so)

Exposure modes: more than I can remember, but all 3 basics are there:
shutter-priority, aperture-priority and **manual**.  Also, it's got a
spot meter.

The 2 accessory lenses (28mm and 300mm) also are quite good and cost
under $100 each if you want to expand in future.  And, probably the best
addition, is the G-40 flash.  The buit-in flash is quite good. 
Automatically covers the entire zoom range with the dual tubes, and has
the usual anti-red-eye mode.  But, the G-40 (at ~ $140) adds: coverage
to 28 and 300, rear curtain sync, multi flash, FP flash (unless you're
in the US) auto-zooming flash - zooms with the lens, and more.  But best
of all, it can point in any direction, allowing bounce flash and other
creative flash work.  I get fantastically lit portraits with just this
setup.

Hope this helps.

George

PS: I don't see any problem with the polarizer at all, except possibly
may throw the spot meter off if it's linear rather than circular
polarizer.  Lens has standard 55mm threads.

Bau Struye wrote:
> 
> Hello on the Olympus list.
> 
> I have been using Olympus equipment since the mid 70s and went through an 
> OM-1,
> a couple of OM-2s, OM-4, XAs etc...  But like many others when the darn kids
> decided to start appearing, I had to sell all these prized possessions because
> of the usual time, space and money considerations.  So for the last eight or
> nine years I have had to rely on a variety of Olympus point and shoots which I
> have been only mildly satisfied with (reliability of those things has been
> spotty at best, unlike the dependable OM stuff).
> 
> But I am now at a point where I just can't stand the auto-everything anymore
> and I need to get back into more controllable equipment.  Having been out of
> the loop for a while, I would love to get some of your opinions (or pointers 
> to
> messages to deal with the same).   Here are my guiding parameters:
> 
> 1.  Money:  Max $400 all included.
> 2.  Would prefer to buy new (mail order) because, given the reliability
> problems, I want to get the Olympus extended warranty.
> 3.  Would prefer to have as few separate parts as possible.  Separate body,
> flash, lens and winder don't mix well with 3 small children, unfortunately.
> 4.  I need it to have at least a small flash, a winder and lenses to cover 
> from
> 28 or 35 to at least 110mm.
> 5.  I want to be able to add a polarizing filter.
> 6.  I would like to have available auto exposure
> 
> My choices seem to be:
> A. Used OM2-S with some lenses and winder and flash (Great but would be hard 
> to
> meet 1, 2 and 3)
> 
> B. New OM-2000 with some used lenses + winder + flash (Hard to meet 3 and 6)
> 
> C. IS-3  (Is the power focus really a manual focus only power driven?  How
> reliable is it?  Can you add a polarizing filter?)
> 
> D. IS-10  (Can it or the 20 or the 30 be set to manual focus?  If not, then I
> don't want them.  If yes, what is the difference between the three?  How
> reliable are they?  Can you add a polarizing filter?)
> 
> Any thoughts/comments would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Bau Struye
> 
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