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Re: [OM] The real subject - Slide copier to interneg, not Article on Oly

Subject: Re: [OM] The real subject - Slide copier to interneg, not Article on Olympus 35RC
From: Gene Mayeda <gmayeda@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 21:30:32 -0600
Chung, Stephen (D&B Telecom) wrote:
> 
> >Gene wrote:-
> >>I've made internegatives on a Bowens Illumitran 3c.I used Kodacolor
> >>100.The lens is a Bogan 60mm F/4 wideangle enlarging lens.(Not a great
> >>lens but you need the subject to lens distance it provides to use the
> >>contrast control unit.)The CCU is a second electronic flash that kicks
> >>light into a thin piece of glass set (between the original slide/neg.)
> >>at 45 degrees.
> That outfit sounds like something a pro-lab uses for interneg work, so
> for a humble hobbyist such as myself could be a wee bit outside my
> budget.  If I could spare $4,000 another option would be upgrading my PC
> and buying a HP Photosmart scanner and printer or better.  I was
> impressed with a negative enlargement using the Photosmart setup but I
> don't know what it is like with transparency film.

This piece of equiptment was purchased almost 20 years ago and has made
thousands of dupe slides.I only occasionally shoot makeshift internegs
to be made into 3 1/2" x 5" prints.It cost about $1000 including the
lens.

> SNIP
> >>You can flash your internegs or slides with a double
> >>exposure (Your bellows and slide copier.)Quality is fair.the prints are
> >>not as sharp and contrast is better handled by shooting negative film
> >>for your originals instead of slides.
> So this is one controlled method of pre (or post?) flashing your film in
> order to control excess contrast in slide copying to print film.  How
> would you go about flashing an entire roll of film at once?


I have heard of that technique but I think that it is an invitation for
dust on your film.Most labs will take 12 ex. rolls and I suppose you
could do it in a darkroom and a bounced strobe off a white ceiling on
minimum power and lots of neutral density on the flash.I don't think
this is the way to go.Individually flashing each frame means you can
control the contrast for varying degrees of contrast in your slides.

> SNIP
> >>What I don't understand about Stephen Chung's advice is that he says he is
> >>using tungsten film
> >>w/o filtration yet he is using strobe.
> Wait a minute, that wasn't my advice (at least not in this lifetime) it
> was John P's along with the Olympus 35RC subject line.


Sorry my mistake.

 
> SNIP
> >>One bonus of making your own slide dupes or internegs is that you
> >>can crop the original.If you have a Zuiko macro lens already then you
> >>have every thing you might need to make internegatives.Just don't expect
> >>incredible results.This is a cheap way to make multiple prints from
> >>slides,but I don't recommend it as a standard way to make prints
> 
> SNIP
> Thanks Gene for the advice and information.  I only intend to use this
> method as a value for money way for getting prints from slides, for the
> times when a projector and screen aren't handy.  Should I ever have a
> slide worth enlarging for display I'd use Ciba/Ilfochrome.



There were internegative films that do not need flashing but they do
require lots of filtration and I don't know if it was available in other
than 100' rolls.I think that the exposure had something to do with the
contrast.I really don't have any experience with true internegative
films and I could be wrong.-Gene

> Regards
> S.C.

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