Hi all:
I shoot my outdoor macro flash shots with a single T-32 flash at 2 stops
greater than the ambient light. I'll mount it on a Bounce Grip 2 when I'm
serious about what I'm shooting. The flash acts as the Key light and daylight
acts as the Fill. It has worked so well I've not considered a change for more
than 15 years. Most folks don't know that my flower pix used a flash! The
only disadvantage is that one has to predict the light level and choose a film
and ND filters on the flash accordingly. That usually means an ISO 25-50 film
in sunlight open meadows and prairies, ISO 100 in open but cloudy habitats, an
ISO 200 in light forests and ISO 400 for dark forests. Those choices also fit
the habitat conditions for hand holding (when necessary) landscape shots. (I
don't do many dark forests, thank God).
BTW, I don't use OTF metering. Most macro range nature subjects don't fill
the frame! I go with manual settings determined from test subjects at preset
mag ratios. I'll overexpose 1/2 stop a dark subject and underexpose 1/2 stop
a light subject to get a pleasing slide.
I used a Vivitar? ring flash years ago when I was doing museum exhibits. I
didn't link the low power output, bulk, and wierd shadows.
Gary Reese
Las Vegas, NV
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