Jim, I asked about the converter because I've found ways to contain
the reds with "Process Version 5" that will keep them from going
out-of-gamut.
The in-camera histogram is great for preventing the channels from
clipping in the RAW files, but with the E-1, the biggest problem is
the histogram is a cumulative RGB value of the imbedded JPEG image in
the RAW file. With other models that have the separate RGB histograms,
they don't always show the RAW value, but the converted value.
As a result, when shooting the E-1, you always want to leave a tiny
bit of space on the right side of the histogram. If the picture
contains red items that could be high value, you'll want to have a
full stop worth of headroom on the histogram.
So, with the Adobe converter, if you go to the Calibration pane, make
sure you select Process Version 5 (Current). And now for the trick:
Dial back the saturation of the Red, Green and Blue Primary values
enough that you see the texture and gradients in the reds that you
want, and then add saturation back in using the normal Vibrance and
Saturation sliders.
Playing around with the Calibration pane values is a great way to get
some non-Olympus cameras to actually produce nice Olympus colors. I
discovered this with my Canon files and I always tweak the Hue and
Saturation sliders before chasing my tail with the normal adjusters.
AG Schnozz
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