A few quick questions Moose:
How long does it take for the camera to automatically take all the exposures
for the stack ?
Once all the exposures have been made how long does it take for the camera
to construct the finished JPG ?
...Wayne
-----Original Message-----
From: olympus
[mailto:olympus-bounces+wayne.harridge=structuregraphs.com@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
] On Behalf Of Moose
Sent: Monday, 1 August 2016 9:30 AM
To: Olympus Camera Discussion <olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [OM] E-M1 focus testing
On 7/31/2016 4:01 PM, Mike Gordon via olympus wrote:
> Stacker Moose writes:
>
>
> <<If I set for 10 shots and aperture @ f2, those shots will be very
closely spaced and the total focal depth of the stack will be relatively
shallow.
>
>
> <Another caveat. The stack starts at the current focus distance and works
its way farther away until it has taken the set number of shots. With
subjects like flowers, insects, etc., its really easy to miss a bit or two
that are closer <to the camera than where the lens is focused, resulting in
a wonderful image, but for a couple of prominent bits that are softer -
right up front. So I've taken to focusing, then moving the camera back just
a little before pushing <the release the rest of the way. This has been
working well for me.
> <This is true for the E-M5 II, and I imagine the E-M1.
>
> Good to know. For static subjects with no wind,
Just for me, it's not just the wind. I mostly shoot hand held*, and I am not
the best tripod in the world. :-) But I work pretty well with the very fast
process of a 12 shot bracket on the E-M5 II - well - well enough for PS to
align them nicely for me.
I've also run into trouble doing manual stacks with changing light, and
recall Chuck's trouble with small, cut branches moving as they dried out.
> almost better to hand stack on a rail--
For a person of leisure, and/or infinite patience, OK. Camera created stacks
approach infinitely faster as a limit. I know I have had trouble with my own
limits when manually stacking with rail - I get distracted/bored, and forget
where I am in the process, resulting in duplicate and/or missing slices. (I
probably shouldn't take up surgery.)
> at least easier to know one has the depth of stack about right.
In practice, I've not found this to be a problem. The stack usually goes
past the needed depth, and the last couple/few slices may be skipped in
stacking. If concerned, set for way more slices than could possibly be
needed, then throw out the extras, a breeze in FS, LR, Bridge, etc. Still
much faster than a hand stack.
> There is an expensive stacking gizmo, but not much use in the wind.
> https://www.cognisys-inc.com/products/stackshot/stackshot.php
> Cheaper and easier to have it built into the cam for many subjects.
I have trouble imagining a situation in which I would now hand stack, and
I'm certainly not going to spend a lot on such a gizmo when the camera does
it "for free". :-) Well, it is free, as it was a firmware update.
> With dedicated stacking software one can set the "smoothing radius" as
well.
> It is sometimes very helpful. if set small, can take a whole bunch of
cloning work to have the image past the Moose test at 100%.
I'm still learning and refining my work flow and process just with PS. With
subjects like the dahlias, It's all pretty much straightforward, follow the
steps and it's a perfect stack. Other subjects can be trickier, and can fool
the PS blend process pretty badly. I'll be posting more examples soon.
[Moose]
* OMG, the FREEDOM! WOW!
--
What if the Hokey Pokey *IS* what it's all about?
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