I use ESP metering with the E-1, with all lenses, both ZD and older, manual
glass. The only time I get in trouble is when I accidentally set it to one
of the other choices.
Jim Nichols
Tullahoma, TN USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Norton" <ken@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Olympus Camera Discussion" <olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2011 3:22 PM
Subject: Re: [OM] Light meter
> Chris, one thing that you might be fighting is the ESP metering. Try
> changing the metering mode to Averaging.
>
> Another issue involving closeups is light-loss due to extension. If
> the light level is dropping down far enough the in-camera meter will
> be unable to accurately determine exposure. Also, if light is entering
> through the eye-piece, that will also throw the meter off.
>
> One problem with ESP mode is the camera makes an assumption that the
> active/selected focus-point is the subject and will expose for that.
> If, however, you are manually focusing or doing something completely
> different, it defeats the fuzzy-logic of the ESP computation.
>
> The E-500, as with the E-300 and E-1, have Kodak sensors which don't
> lend themselves as well to "Expose to the Right" and the image files
> will usually be more satisfactory if you expose as close to final as
> possible. In fact, with my E-1, I usually get my best files if I have
> to pull the exposure up about 1/3 of a stop during RAW conversion. So,
> this means that a good ambient meter will work well with these
> cameras.
>
> Meters I've personally had which I can highly recommend:
>
> 1. Gossen LunaPro. What a fantastic meter in almost every way. I do
> miss those dials which give equivalency exposures. At a glance you can
> tell how many minutes exposure it would take if you used F32 instead
> of F1.4.
>
> 2. Polaris Digital Flash/Ambient Meter. (forgot the model number). I
> passed mine along to another starving photographer when I got the
> L-508. Surprisingly, this meter has turned out to be exceptionally
> accurate and easy to use. The price makes this meter an absolute
> bargain. Overall, this is one of the best meters available at any
> price--it works, works well, is quite simple and very fast to operate.
>
> 3. Sekonic L-508. This one is in an entire series of meters. Every
> couple of years Sekonic came up with an upgrade and hence a new
> number. The L-508 is the last one to not show the exposure data inside
> the spot-meter display. Otherwise, the metering system in it is
> essentially identical to the latest/greatest, but lacks the newer
> computer features and anylitical features. The dome on the Sekonic is
> retractable which provides for both flat and dome exposure. The spot
> meter is zoomable. I REALLY like the Sekonic and it has enabled me to
> explore some really advanced lighting techniques which were possible
> before, but not really understood. This is a case where the tool can
> become the teacher.
>
> Back to ESP for a second. If you are using variable ND-grads or
> polarizers on the lens, this may be throwing ESP off. A systems lens
> passes information onto the camera and the camera-lens is expecting
> certain results. If you put something on the lens which is reducing
> the transmitted EV, ESP may be fooled. With older manual-focus lenses,
> all bets are off.
>
> Maybe others have been able to get it to work correctly, but the
> spot-metering in the E-1 or DMC-L1 almost always fails to give me a
> predictable and reliable exposure.
>
> AG Schnozz
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>
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