I used to use the Minolta A1 at parties and wedding receptions where
there really wasn't much chance of a print sale beyond a 4x6 or 5x7
although even an 8x10 would be OK. Hold it at ISO 100 and blast the
hall with lots of light from up to four studio flashes... even six
lights on one occasion... and you're good to go. Set the lens for 28mm
equivalent, aperture at f/4 or f/5.6, taped down manual focus at about 5
feet and you've got hyperfocal from 2-1/2 feet to infinity. Point,
shoot and flash.
Of course, you can't be seen with a non-professional camera so you must
add the lens hood and the honking big double battery pack on the bottom.
Then add a Stroboframe and a big portable flash unit for fill and you
and the camera look every bit the pro. :-)
That camera had a 2/3" sensor which is substantially larger than most
small cameras today. It would still be a killer if re-released with a
more modern sensor and a better EVF.
Chuck Norcutt
On 6/14/2011 5:30 PM, Andrew Fildes wrote:
> As a friend says, if you want the client to think that you're a real
> pro, use a lens hood. A portrait competition in Aus., a serious art
> one with a prize in the couple of hundred thousand dollar range, was
> won this year by a pro port shooter using available light and a Nikon
> D70. Outdated consumer grade cam - the lens didn't get a mention but.
> So the answer is yes, I guess. Andrew Fildes afildes@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> On 15/06/2011, at 1:03 AM, Bob Whitmire wrote:
>
>> OK, I know I'm walking into this, but if you've got a reasonably
>> decent camera and a pretty good lens, and the combination is being
>> used by a professional, doesn't it automatically qualify as a
>> professional system?<g>
>
--
_________________________________________________________________
Options: http://lists.thomasclausen.net/mailman/listinfo/olympus
Archives: http://lists.thomasclausen.net/mailman/private/olympus/
Themed Olympus Photo Exhibition: http://www.tope.nl/
|