I should have pointed out that Dr. Flash's view of "correct" exposure
will often differ from that of a flash meter. That's because he prefers
to "shoot to the right" and post-process *everything*.
<http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/expose-right.shtml>
If you need to get the exposure spot-on directly on the film and/or
aren't going to scan and post-process then give more credence to the meter.
Dr. Flash
On 9/11/2010 1:00 PM, Jan Steinman wrote:
>> From: Ken Norton<ken@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>>
>> 1. Trial and error using a digital camera and manual flash
>> control. 2. Use a flash meter and manual flash control to determine
>> aperture setting.
>
> Not Dr. Flash, but I've done a fair bit of this stuff.
>
> I reverse Ken's steps: flash meter first, then fine-tune with a
> digicam.
>
> Even if your final work product is film, if you can mount the same
> objective on your film camera and have the same working distance, you
> should be set with manual flash of the same guide number.
>
> I'd also add to use a copy stand, or at least a tripod, because the
> working distance is part of the equation, and difficult to remember
> or guesstimate if you don't have your camera and subject fixed.
>
> Most of my work in this areas has been jewelry, notoriously difficult
> to auto-expose on black velvet. My experience is that TTL flash is
> nearly useless under such conditions.
>
> If you're going to be doing much of this, a flash meter is a must.
> They ain't cheap: I've got a Gossen Luna Star F2 and a Sekonic L-508,
> which set me back $210 and $250, used. The Sekonic is more versatile,
> and lives on the copy stand. The Gossen lives with the Super Technika
> 4"x5".
>
> ---------------- If you don't have confidence in the diagnosis, you
> won't have confidence in the prescription. -- Stephen R. Covey ::::
> Jan Steinman, EcoReality Co-op ::::
>
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