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Re: [OM] How do I use chemical process print paper profiles in PhotoShop

Subject: Re: [OM] How do I use chemical process print paper profiles in PhotoShop?
From: Chuck Norcutt <chucknorcutt@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2009 17:09:38 -0500
Sometimes I'm not very smart but I have been smart enough not to attempt 
chemical process color printing.  I ain't that dumb!

Chuck Norcutt


Sue Pearce wrote:
> Oh, I though you werer going to make you own prints.
> 
> Bill pearce
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Chris Crawford" <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: "Olympus Camera Discussion" <olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 2009 2:21 PM
> Subject: Re: [OM] How do I use chemical process print paper profiles in 
> PhotoShop?
> 
> 
>> Chuck, glad I could help. I got expert in this stuff, color management,
>> years ago when I first began using my film scanner and an epson printer. 
>> It
>> was a nightmare because back then little reliable info was out there and 
>> it
>> was all very obscure and hard to understand. Things are easier now, there
>> are some good books out there that explain this stuff in plain english, 
>> but
>> I still think color management is the hardest thing about digital mage
>> processing. There are so many variables. Is he monitor calibrated right? 
>> Is
>> the monitor even capable of proper display? Most LCDs are almost worthless
>> in my experience if you want exact or near-exact matching from screen to
>> print. Most are too bright and to make matters worse, most Calibration
>> systems have you use way too bright of a white point when they calibrate
>> your screen (should be 80cd/sq inch). My Eye-One Display said to calibrate
>> LCDs to 120 cd/sq in, and that is WAYYYYY to bright. I now have a
>> self-calibrating NEC screen that automatically sets itself to 80 for
>> brightness and D65 for color temp. Works perfect, but expensive. The old 
>> CRT
>> screens were better, even cheap ones worked well. With LCDs the cheap ones
>> often are not capable of the accuracy of color needed and are too bright
>> even at the dimmest settings :(
>>
>> Yep, you had it right. The choice between Perceptual and Relative
>> Colrimetric is called the RENDERING INTENT> What it does is it controls 
>> the
>> manner in which colors are converted from your editing colorspace (sRGB) 
>> and
>> your output colorspace (the printer profile). Like I said some profiles 
>> seem
>> to be optimized for Perceptual, some for Relative Colorimetric. Perceptual
>> is most common. You can't trust the instructions that come with the 
>> profile
>> (if it came with any). I have gotten profiles from labs before with
>> instructions to use one of the rendering intents, only to find that the
>> opposite choice gave the best results! That's why I say to try them both.
>>
>> Oh, I forgot....when you do the conversion, there is a checkbox that says
>> "Use black point compensation". Make sure its checked.
>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> Chris Crawford
>> Fine Art Photography
>> Fort Wayne, Indiana
>> 260-424-0897
>>
>> http://www.chriscrawfordphoto.com  My portfolio
>>
>> http://blog.chriscrawfordphoto.com  My latest work!
>>
>>
>> On 12/1/09 2:56 PM, "Chuck Norcutt" <chucknorcutt@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks.  I guess I had it sort of half figured out when I said:
>>> "Or do I need to generate an output file that is filtered through the
>>> paper profile in a manner similar to generating the output data that
>>> goes to my inkjet printer?"  I just didn't know how to do it.  Now I do.
>>>   Thanks again.  And I'll take your advice on having the same test print
>>> done multiple ways.
>>>
>>> Chuck Norcutt
>>>
>>> Chris Crawford wrote:
>>>> Chick,
>>>>
>>>> Soft proofing doesn't really work well with RGB profiles, is it more
>>>> effective with CMYK press profiles because those presses lose a lot more
>>>> color range compared to what the monitor shows. When preparing files for 
>>>> an
>>>> RGB printer like a Fuji Frontier or other digital minilab, or for an 
>>>> inkjet
>>>> printer (injets are designed for RGB input despite using cmyk inks).
>>>>
>>>> Here's what you do: Make the image look the way you want in sRGB, then
>>>> convert to the printer profile you have using the 'convert to profile'
>>>> command. You'l probably want to do this using Perceptual rendering. Many 
>>>> RGB
>>>> output profiles give bad results using Relative Colorimetric. An easy 
>>>> test
>>>> is to take a file and convert it both ways and send both files to the 
>>>> lab
>>>> and see which looks closer to your screen. But I am betting on 
>>>> Perceptual.
>>>>
>>>> Save the converted file under a new name so you don't lose the original 
>>>> sRGB
>>>> version. When you save, DO NOT embed the profile....Fuji Frontiers don't
>>>> like to see an embedded profile. Then, send the converted file to the
>>>> printer. Your print should be pretty close if your screen is calibrated
>>>> right.
>>>>
>>>>
>>
>> -- 
>> _________________________________________________________________
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> 
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