The degree of sharpening is very depending on the camera, Olympus require
more due to the strong AA filter. 5D II has a weaker AA filter (I heard the
5D is even weaker) so it require less and in most cases I just avoid sharpen
the image to reduce the artifacts - such as halo and change of relative
brightness of micro details. Sharpening and LCE will affect the original
mood of the image so I will limit them to minimum.
For sharpen between resize, I remember we had a discussion before, this is
especially useful for soft image such as the one due to focus shift, I had
lots of problem with the E-1 and E-300 event shots. For those problem images
I will apply a strong sharpen at the orignal size before performing resize
(or more than one time between each resize step), this will reduce the
sharpening artifact when compared to applying the sharpen on the final
stage. For Brian's sample, I remember it was also helpful to avoid using
sharpen on the final stage in order to reduce the jaggies.
C.H.Ling
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Swale"
>A little while ago, somebody stated categorically that images from digital
> cameras do not need sharpening. Or that's how I remember it, anyhow.
>
> My experience is the opposite. I have so far only had Olympus digital
> cameras, and of these only in the E series.
>
> To use one constant measure, I refer to the sharpening/blur tool in
> Faststone Image Viewer. This runs from 0 to + (I have never looked for the
> upper limit) to sharpen, and conversely to - (an increasing degree of
> blur).
> When sharpening is applied to a jpeg image, the effect can be seen quite
> rapidly, and it is easy to see if any particular image needs 1, 2, 4 or
> whatever levels of sharpening, and similarly, but observing the effect on
> edges such as a mountain ridgeline, it is easy to see if to much
> sharpening
> has been applied in any particular instance. In my experience, too much
> sharpening shows up as a "halo" effect. So, one can undo, and try again.
>
> So I have found that (with cameras on tripods) the E-1 images generally
> need +4 degree, and the E-3 & E-510 about +2 or +3; but sometimes
> nothing is to be gained by sharpening. Only trial shows this.
>
> As far as resizing in steps with a sharpen after each resize, I think it
> was CH
> Ling who showed me how to do this and demonstrated what there was to
> gain, when I was trying to resize this picture for the Olympus Odyssey;
> just
> look at all the lines, and with the wrong technique, they all had massive
> jaggies, even though the lines seem to be curved (they are not - just lots
> of
> straight lines).
> http://www.reflective-moment.com/olympus-odyssey/bswale/picture4.htm
>
> Brian Swale.
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